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Travel Florida: Key West – for casual laid back good food, good culture & the sea
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
| WAVE Journey.com Women's Adventures, Vacations & Experiences ~ Your Journey Starts Here! |
TM
A Woman's Directory For Travel and Life.
WAVE Journey is your one-stop online resource for women-oriented travel businesses & services
around the world.
WAVE Journey is for every woman to enjoy. If you love to travel, cook, read or revel in outdoor activities this website
is for you. If you are looking to connect with other like-minded women or if you are interested in finding businesses
or services that cater to women, WAVE Journey is your number one online travel resource.
WAVE Journey is your one-stop online resource for women-oriented travel businesses & services
around the world.
WAVE Journey is for every woman to enjoy. If you love to travel, cook, read or revel in outdoor activities this website
is for you. If you are looking to connect with other like-minded women or if you are interested in finding businesses
or services that cater to women, WAVE Journey is your number one online travel resource.
BIO
Lucy Komisar is a New York journalist who writes about travel and theater and also investigates the
offshore bank and corporate secrecy system and how it services international crime & corruption. (That
takes her to interesting places!)
See stories on http://thekomisarscoop.com
Lucy Komisar is a New York journalist who writes about travel and theater and also investigates the
offshore bank and corporate secrecy system and how it services international crime & corruption. (That
takes her to interesting places!)
See stories on http://thekomisarscoop.com
In 1971, Mike Eden, a Marine Vietnam vet, went to Key West on a spring break from Michigan State where he'd
been on the GI bill for 7 years. Two-thirds of Duval Street, the main drag, was boarded up. He wasn't
discouraged. He came back twice more and discovered the Gibson hotel, a clapboard building that had been
built in 1924. The Gibsons wanted to sell it. Eden scrounged and borrowed for the down payment and closed
the deal in 1975.
In the following years, he bought the neighboring conch houses, a parking lot, a pool. The houses are
traditionally clapboard because the first settlers took their wooden boats apart to build dwellings. The
Bahamians added verandas and shutters. Now "Eden House" is an intimate conch house collection,
surrounded by Areca palms, black olives, Shady Lady trees and corn plants. Mike told us the story sitting in a
swing on the porch of the conch house we were staying in. It was built in the 19th century and still keeps its
private entrance.
been on the GI bill for 7 years. Two-thirds of Duval Street, the main drag, was boarded up. He wasn't
discouraged. He came back twice more and discovered the Gibson hotel, a clapboard building that had been
built in 1924. The Gibsons wanted to sell it. Eden scrounged and borrowed for the down payment and closed
the deal in 1975.
In the following years, he bought the neighboring conch houses, a parking lot, a pool. The houses are
traditionally clapboard because the first settlers took their wooden boats apart to build dwellings. The
Bahamians added verandas and shutters. Now "Eden House" is an intimate conch house collection,
surrounded by Areca palms, black olives, Shady Lady trees and corn plants. Mike told us the story sitting in a
swing on the porch of the conch house we were staying in. It was built in the 19th century and still keeps its
private entrance.
Most of the guests are Americans, but you'll always hear a foreign accent. Germans like it as a gemütliche
Gasthaus. Happy hour is 4pm at the pool, which is open at night. (There's a webcam to check out the action.)
But no noise is allowed on the grounds before 10am or after 10pm. Coffee and fruit are available 24 hours a
day in the lobby. Our room had a fridge, microwave and coffee maker. Clocks are backwards to suggest you
ought to forget time!
Key West is the kind of place where people like to stay in small hotels and bed & breakfasts. It's casual and
not pretentious, though often very comfortable, and of course the ambience and the 70s weather helps.
Most of what you do, what we did, was done out of doors.
Gasthaus. Happy hour is 4pm at the pool, which is open at night. (There's a webcam to check out the action.)
But no noise is allowed on the grounds before 10am or after 10pm. Coffee and fruit are available 24 hours a
day in the lobby. Our room had a fridge, microwave and coffee maker. Clocks are backwards to suggest you
ought to forget time!
Key West is the kind of place where people like to stay in small hotels and bed & breakfasts. It's casual and
not pretentious, though often very comfortable, and of course the ambience and the 70s weather helps.
Most of what you do, what we did, was done out of doors.
We had a fabulous lunch at the "Sun Sun" café on the beach patio of the legendary Casa Marina. Beyond the
terrace were people on beach chaises and hammocks, some in kayaks in the shimmering sea, and a gaggle
perched on jet skis. Swarms of sea gulls swooped through the palms over the white umbrellas.
To one side was a cooking class, with participants happily eating the results. The piped music was moody
Jamaican, Bob Marley. The menu was surprisingly affordable, most dishes at $15: blackened snapper, tuna,
mahi mahi or shrimp. My seared tuna was delicious. A terrific place for lunch.
Near the Casa Marina are public hard-surface tennis courts, and we played there several times during the
week. I loved glancing at the beach and the palms as I waited for a serve.
terrace were people on beach chaises and hammocks, some in kayaks in the shimmering sea, and a gaggle
perched on jet skis. Swarms of sea gulls swooped through the palms over the white umbrellas.
To one side was a cooking class, with participants happily eating the results. The piped music was moody
Jamaican, Bob Marley. The menu was surprisingly affordable, most dishes at $15: blackened snapper, tuna,
mahi mahi or shrimp. My seared tuna was delicious. A terrific place for lunch.
Near the Casa Marina are public hard-surface tennis courts, and we played there several times during the
week. I loved glancing at the beach and the palms as I waited for a serve.
We never miss a Key West sunset cruise. Because the island is the tiny end point of Florida, there's the
Atlantic on the east and the Gulf of Mexico on the west. (The place where they meet is marked by a sign!) It
means you can sail right into the sunset. People watch it from Mallory Square, but it's fun to go out on a boat
– especially when it's the Danger Charters Wind and Wine Sunset Cruise, that includes a generous tasting of
champagne plus eight high-end reds and whites. And nibbles of cheese and crackers, sausage and crudités.
The pièce de résistance, of course, is the extraordinary blaze of colors when the sun goes down.
There's plenty of chance for the more traditional "theatrical experience." The advantage of Key West as a
place that appeals to an arty community is that there's a host of performing talent living there. Or happy to
visit. The Red Barn Theatre was built as a carriage house in 1829, was used as a playhouse at various times
in the 40s to 60s, and became the Red Barn Theatre in 1980. It puts on new plays and revivals, doing work
by many prominent playwrights. We were pleased that during our week it featured "Forbidden Broadway,"
that clever, charming, affectionately biting parody of Broadway musicals that Gerard Alessandrini has staged
in New York for years. This production directed by Becky Barta was as good as any I've seen, speaking as a
critic and member of the New York Drama Desk.
Atlantic on the east and the Gulf of Mexico on the west. (The place where they meet is marked by a sign!) It
means you can sail right into the sunset. People watch it from Mallory Square, but it's fun to go out on a boat
– especially when it's the Danger Charters Wind and Wine Sunset Cruise, that includes a generous tasting of
champagne plus eight high-end reds and whites. And nibbles of cheese and crackers, sausage and crudités.
The pièce de résistance, of course, is the extraordinary blaze of colors when the sun goes down.
There's plenty of chance for the more traditional "theatrical experience." The advantage of Key West as a
place that appeals to an arty community is that there's a host of performing talent living there. Or happy to
visit. The Red Barn Theatre was built as a carriage house in 1829, was used as a playhouse at various times
in the 40s to 60s, and became the Red Barn Theatre in 1980. It puts on new plays and revivals, doing work
by many prominent playwrights. We were pleased that during our week it featured "Forbidden Broadway,"
that clever, charming, affectionately biting parody of Broadway musicals that Gerard Alessandrini has staged
in New York for years. This production directed by Becky Barta was as good as any I've seen, speaking as a
critic and member of the New York Drama Desk.
It included a great spoof of "Les Miz" with painted
wooden flags carried by a troupe (Marjorie Paul-
Shook, J.B. McLendon, Eric Cole and Gayla Morgan)
announcing that they will be "ready when the British
come." (An inside theater joke.) And complaining
about seeking tickets to "The Lion King," "a story so
bizarri, it's Hamlet on safari." Also "Lisa," brassy and
breathless, dressed in sequins on chiffon, intones "I'm
Lisa one-note… your ears will be ringing in pain, that's
why my friends snort cocaine."
Among my favorites this time: Annie, with a dangling
cigarette, complaining, "I'm 30 years old tomorrow
and I haven’t worked since I played Annie, since I was
10!" And a send-up of wordsmith Stephen Sondheim
wooden flags carried by a troupe (Marjorie Paul-
Shook, J.B. McLendon, Eric Cole and Gayla Morgan)
announcing that they will be "ready when the British
come." (An inside theater joke.) And complaining
about seeking tickets to "The Lion King," "a story so
bizarri, it's Hamlet on safari." Also "Lisa," brassy and
breathless, dressed in sequins on chiffon, intones "I'm
Lisa one-note… your ears will be ringing in pain, that's
why my friends snort cocaine."
Among my favorites this time: Annie, with a dangling
cigarette, complaining, "I'm 30 years old tomorrow
and I haven’t worked since I played Annie, since I was
10!" And a send-up of wordsmith Stephen Sondheim
which turns "Into the Woods" into "Into the words that trip you up and fry your brain and sprain your
tongue." Marjorie Paul-Shook and Gayla Morgan do a wonderful Chita Rivera-Rita Moreno rivalry (Chita did
the stage production of West Side Story, but Rita got the film role.) And more! Sam Willmott accompanied
with panache at the piano.
tongue." Marjorie Paul-Shook and Gayla Morgan do a wonderful Chita Rivera-Rita Moreno rivalry (Chita did
the stage production of West Side Story, but Rita got the film role.) And more! Sam Willmott accompanied
with panache at the piano.
Those were not the only high-end local talents. One
day at cocktail time we drove to the Marriott Beachside
Tavern N Town to see and hear Carmen Rodriguez and
Michael Thomas in a few hours of mellow cabaret.
Carmen's slightly jazzy honeyed voice caresses songs
such as "Let's fall in love" and "The look of love."
Michael at the piano and keyboard is a whole
orchestra. Carmen has a perky, bubbly personality,
and fans come in and hug her. Carmen: this is a hug!
day at cocktail time we drove to the Marriott Beachside
Tavern N Town to see and hear Carmen Rodriguez and
Michael Thomas in a few hours of mellow cabaret.
Carmen's slightly jazzy honeyed voice caresses songs
such as "Let's fall in love" and "The look of love."
Michael at the piano and keyboard is a whole
orchestra. Carmen has a perky, bubbly personality,
and fans come in and hug her. Carmen: this is a hug!
If you go
Eden House
1015 Fleming Street (in the historic center).
Key West, FL 33040-6962.
(305) 296-6868.
39 rooms including two full apartments.
Prices from Jan mid-season and holidays $115 to $400,
more for apts.
Bike rentals range from $10 for 12 hours to $55 for a
week.
Eden House
1015 Fleming Street (in the historic center).
Key West, FL 33040-6962.
(305) 296-6868.
39 rooms including two full apartments.
Prices from Jan mid-season and holidays $115 to $400,
more for apts.
Bike rentals range from $10 for 12 hours to $55 for a
week.
Casa Marina
1500 Reynolds Street, Key West, FL 33040.
(305) 296-3535.
1500 Reynolds Street, Key West, FL 33040.
(305) 296-3535.
Danger Charters Wind and Wine Sunset Cruise
Buy tickets online or at the booth at Mallory Square at the dock
opposite the Westin hotel, south of Whitehead and Greene.
(305) 304-7999 or (800) 979-3370.
$75; 2-hour cruise leaves at 5; wine, beer, soft drinks, healthy
snacks.
Red Barn Theatre
319 Duval Street, Key West, FL.
(305) 296-9911.
Marriott Beachside Tavern N Town
3841 N Roosevelt Blvd., Key West, FL
(outside the historic center).
(305) 296-8100 or (800) 546-0885.
Carmen Rodriquez on Tuesdays and Thursdays, 5 to 9.
From 5 to 7, tapas for $7 and two-for-one wine.
Airport: Several major air carriers fly to Key West International
Airport. Many flights are routed through Miami International
Airport, although some smaller airlines fly to Key West from other
cities in Florida and the Bahamas. It's a three hour drive through
the Keys from Miami Airport.
Florida Keys Tourism information.
Note: "Forbidden Broadway" photo by Mike Marrero
Buy tickets online or at the booth at Mallory Square at the dock
opposite the Westin hotel, south of Whitehead and Greene.
(305) 304-7999 or (800) 979-3370.
$75; 2-hour cruise leaves at 5; wine, beer, soft drinks, healthy
snacks.
Red Barn Theatre
319 Duval Street, Key West, FL.
(305) 296-9911.
Marriott Beachside Tavern N Town
3841 N Roosevelt Blvd., Key West, FL
(outside the historic center).
(305) 296-8100 or (800) 546-0885.
Carmen Rodriquez on Tuesdays and Thursdays, 5 to 9.
From 5 to 7, tapas for $7 and two-for-one wine.
Airport: Several major air carriers fly to Key West International
Airport. Many flights are routed through Miami International
Airport, although some smaller airlines fly to Key West from other
cities in Florida and the Bahamas. It's a three hour drive through
the Keys from Miami Airport.
Florida Keys Tourism information.
Note: "Forbidden Broadway" photo by Mike Marrero