MOISSAC TO ST. JEAN PIED-DE-PORT IN 14 DAYS


Day 10 - Pomp to Maslacq = 20 km - bit up and down, but not a big deal.  Beautiful views
from Arthez if the weather is clear.  This is a nice walk if the weather is good, not much fun if
it's raining as it is windy and muddy.  The gite in Maslacq is very tiny - 4 Beds - shower, toilet,
kitchen, so phone ahead about 3-4 days if possible.  (05-59-67-60-79)  If you don't get an
answer you can presume it is booked, the alternative is a lovely 2 star hotel/restaurant if
you're in the mood to splurge - Hotel-restaurant Maugouber (05-59-38-78-00).  Leaving
Pomps it's a flat walk until you approach the hills before Arthez-de-Bearn.  At the top of the
hill and further along the ridge is Arthez - a lovely town with fantastic panoramic views. Post
office/cafe/bars/restaurants/casino shop/boulangerie, specialty shops, etc...  If the weather
is wonderful and you're here about lunch time, pick up picnic and head out of town a little
and find a field to enjoy the views.  There is an epicerie in Maslacq so you can get food for
the evening/next day there.

Day 11 - Maslacq to Navarrenx = 23 km - up and down sort of day with stellar views.  No
shops along the way so make sure you have lunch.  When you reach Navarrenx, head to the
Office du Tourisme - if nothing else, the Gite is in the same square and up the stairs to the
2nd floor of the building in the other corner of the square.  Picture this if you can:  horseshoe
shape square, tourist office is in far left corner as you enter square from the open side of the
shoe, gite is in the far right corner and up the stairs. Gite d'etape - (05-59-66-10-22) 8 E a
night, small dorms, kitchen.  You can also get directions at the bar du Centre
(05-59-66-50-78) facing the Mairie, then you are just around the corner to the gite.  I stayed
here and liked it, I also have stayed at Gite d'etape Charbel although that was further out of
town and the owner wasn't very friendly and you have to have the demi pension (26E).  I'd
recommend you stay at the gite in the centre and go out to buy food, although there is a
fantastic restaurant at the Hotel-restaurant du Commerce - 3 star.  Lots of shops to buy food
and other specialty items of the region.  A lovely white French wine in this region is Jurasac
(not sure spelling is quite right).  

Day 12 - Navarrenx to Aroue = 19 km - this is another great day of walking - phone two days
ahead to stay at farm just before Aroue - I've stayed there twice and loved it.  Great food and
friendly people at Ferme Behoteguya (05-59-65-85-69) A beverage of your choice when you
arrive, dinner with endless wine (I've been hung over after both stays, last year was the
worst and I promise not to do it again), great breakfast, and then they bring out cheese,  
hard boiled eggs, bread, tomatoes, sausage, etc... for you to make a picnic lunch - all for
25E.  There are usually 2-4 people per room and they cook with mostly their own farm
ingredients.  If you don't want the demi pension then you will need to stay at the Gite d'etape
Communal further up the road in the village - (05-59-65-95-54) you can cook here and there
is a small epicerie close by.  But, I'd recommend that you stay at the farm, it's so warm and
relaxing and the old lady is a sweet heart.  The whole family helps out with cooking,
cleaning, serving, etc...

Day 13 - Aroue to Ostabat = 25 km - I hope this is the best day for weather you have along
your journey.  There is a hill that you summit and the views of the Pyrenees are spectacular -
It feels as though you can see forever!  Make sure you take your time to enjoy this day.  You
will need food for lunch before you leave Aroue, nothing open along the way until you get to
Ostabat.  If the weather is good plan on having lunch and a good long break at the top of the
hill I mentioned.  You will pass the Hameau de Gibraltar about the 17km mark, then start up
the hill for 2km to the little Chapelle de Soyarza on top.  In Ostabat stay either at the gite'
d'etape at the base of the village, Maison Ospitalia, Maison Aneteia (05-59-37-83-17) 8E in
the dorm, kitchen available, buy food in the village at the epicerie. Or, stay with Daniel and
Marie-Helene at Auberge Ametzanea (05-59-37-85-03) demi pension 25 E or dinner for 10E
if you're not staying there.  Daniel is quite the Basque and a nice fellow, his wife and family
are adorable - I've done both options and liked them equally, although I have had dinner at
Daniel's both times.  Their Auberge is on the corner as if you were going to leave the village
on your way along the GR.  Ostabat has signs with info in English all over the village for
tourists.


Day 14 - Ostabat to St. Jean-pied-de-port = 23 km.  Only place to get food is about 5 km
before St Jean, so take lunch with you and walk this slowly and quietly!!!  This is a relatively
short walking day and you should be in St. Jean by 2-3pm, you can't make a reservation at
the gite, but don't worry as there are lots of places to stay at reasonable prices if it is full -
also, they will help find you a place.  Hope your journey was everything you wanted and
needed and that you leave with more of yourself!  Still wasn't anywhere to get Internet last
year in October, but ask at Pelerin office.  When you enter the city through the Porte, the gite
is the first door on the right, although you have to go to the Office to check in and be
assigned your bed - if you remember it's just down a little on the same road on the right
side, # 39 rue de la Citadelle - Amis de Saint Jacques des Pyrenees.

This is an outline of how I would spend my days.  It may seem to you that you can do it in a
shorter time frame, with some of the days only being around the 20km mark, but I would
recommend that you take your time and enjoy it.  This is my favorite part of the Camino and I
think it's worth savoring every moment.  You of course, can only decide that for yourself, but
I'd encourage you not to rush.  If you find you need to cut short a day, then on:

Day 9 walk from Arzacq to Arthez = 32 km - stay at the gite d'etape communal, La Carrere
Arthez-de-Bearn (05-59-67-70-52) 7E
Day 10 would be Arthez to Navareenx = 30 km.  Then pick up
the rest of the schedule from there.  

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