Camino - Moissac to St. Jean pied-de-port

MOISSAC TO ST. JEAN PIED-DE-PORT IN 14 DAYS

Give yourself 14 days allowed for walking (if it were me this is how I'd do it for the third time).
  Take some cup-a-soup with you in your packs for those times when you can't find a store
at night. Remember shops close from noon to 2pm or 3pm, and usually all Wednesday
afternoon in smaller places, and all day Sunday. Very few bars along the way that will be
open in the day to get cafe/food, so be prepared. Make sure to use a 32 oz water bottle and
fill whenever you get a chance to fill. Ask in each village the night you get there if there is a
market the next day - they usually start around 8-8:30am and are worth seeing.

In Moissac, stay at: Gite d'etape du Carmel/Centre d'accueil Gite de groupe, 5 sente du
Calvaire - up the hill and to the left of the Cathedral. (tel 05-63-04-62-21) bed 9.50 Euro,
petit dejeuner 4 E, repas (dinner) 11 E (didn't include wine last year and wasn't very edible,
so I'd recommend going out or buying food for the night), demi pension (bed, dinner, b'fast)
24.50E   If you wanted to fax them from home before you leave to reserve a room (I would):
fax 05-63-04-62-22 There are lots of shops in Moissac, grocery store opens at 7am down
the main street from the Cathedral and on the right hand side.

Day 1 - Moissac to St. Antoine = 26 km - pretty easy walk and flat from Moissac to Auvillar
(19km), bit hilly after that but nothing too bad - when you leave Moissac you will follow the
GR 65 signs (red and white stripe) past the railway station and over a bridge, then the trail
takes you along a path past LeFarge and from that point onwards you are walking
alongside the river/canal for the next 14km or so - there is a variante that takes you to
Boudou, DO NOT TAKE IT - it's the long way. You will end up crossing over to the North side
of the canal for the last few KM of your walk along it, watch the signs very carefully once you
have crossed over. There will be a concrete bridge that you go up the side and then cross
back over to the South side and end up walking primarily on the roads (quiet) to Auvillar. It's
not difficult, but do pay attention as some people do get lost and go too far along the canal.
Remember that if you walk 10 minutes and haven't seen a GR 65 sigh, then you've probably
missed it! You will go through a small village called Espalais at about 18 km, there is a very
small epicerie but it does close at noon. You exit the town and cross a blue bridge and
immediately turn left. There is a small gite in the first house on the right, but it's usually
booked and closed until later in the day. The village of Auvillar is at the top of a steep hill,
your walk has been completely flat up to here - Spend some time here to look around and
see the sights, tourist office is in the centre and very informative, speaks English too. Most
Tourisme Offices allow you to leave your packs there while you are sight seeing. There is a
Casino (not gambling, but food store) on the road that you take to leave Auvillar - there isn't
another one until later tomorrow at Miradoux (8km into your walk from St. Antoine). So, if you
don't want to go for the demi pension at St. Antoine (excellent food and lots of wine), then
buy food for dinner and breakfast. From Auvillar the road is a little bit up and down, but
nothing severe or too strenuous. Lots of walking on quiet country roads. Very scenic.
There is a small church at St. Antoine, check it out! Get the people at the gite in Moissac to
call Madam Dupont in St. A for you and make a reservation - I'd stay in the dorm as they're
big (2 of them) and I think the rooms are small and claustrophobic. (tel/fax:
05-62-28-64-27) 10E a night/dorm, pd 4E, repas 12 E

Day 2 - St. Antoine to Lectoure = 25 km - quite an easy walk, although some ups and
downs but nothing severe. When you leave St. Antoine it's a nice walk along country roads
and through some fields most of the way to Lectoure. We picked up a wonderful chestnut
liquor in Lectoure. Only place to get food during the day is in Miradoux at the Casino before
noon, or there is a bar/restaurant as you are leaving Miradoux. Pretty much a day of rolling
hills. Phone ahead to the gite in Lectoure and reserve a bed (05-62-68-76-98) Gite d'etape,
rue Saint Gervais, Lectoure,   7.50E a night, possible to cook - I haven't stayed here as it's
always been full, but I did stay with the nuns at a Convent - by donation and it's quite nice
and private - Accueil chretien au presbytere, 30 rue Nationale, Lectoure. Directions from the
Cathedral are to go East along the main street, keep to the right hand side of the road, past
the park, cross over a main road and walk straight ahead to a walled building. Big green
gate is what you're looking for and ring the bell. Ask people for the Convent. There is a
kitchen where you can cook, they don't speak any English so I was quite challenged, but if
you go to the Tourisme Office next to the Cathedral they can help and do speak some
English. Lectoure is a nice size town up a hill, ah just remembered that you have to climb a
steep hill past the cemetary as you enter, there's lots of shops, bars, restaurants, etc... You
can either cook tonight or go out for dinner. There aren't any shops along the way tomorrow,
so buy food before you leave and head out to Condom.

Day 3 - Lectoure to Condom = 27 km - another easy walk - make sure you don't go to Le
Romieu or that will add on another 11km. Easy to do that and miss the road to Condom as
I found out the first time! If you are on the GR, sometime after Marsolan you are walking
past farm houses on a dirt road and there is a sharp right hand turn along another dirt road
- if you take the right turn you will end up going totally out of your way to La Romieu (and in
my never to be humble opinion; not worth it!), so don't turn right, continue straight ahead or
find a road to the left that takes you to the D7.   You can check internet in Condom, ask at the
Tourisme Office for location and map. Leaving Lectoure, if you're tired follow the road signs
(D7) not the GR to Condom, you'll be on the road most of the way but will save yourself a
couple of km's. It's a day of rolling hills, lots of vineyards and relatively quiet roads.   You
probably won't need to reserve a bed at the gite, groups almost always go to hotels, but if
you feel better about doing it do so: The Gite is in the centre of Condom and only a couple
minutes walk to the Cathedral and the shops. Gite d'etape, Centre SAlvandy, 20 rue Jean
Jaures. Outside the building is a big fence and sign for Nordic Club (or something sporty),
It's on the 3rd floor - to the left and down the hall as you come off the stairs (Madame Adoue
05-62-28-23-80), 2 or 3 small dorms here - 7 or 8 E a night - if you take a bed next to the
window, make sure you close them before going to bed as I can almost 100% guarantee
there will be a storm overnight and all the beds near the windows get soaked (I know these
things for a reason), there is a kitchen or lots of restaurants. FYI - if you're in any of the
rooms after dark with the lights on and the windows open you will be visited by bats!!!

Day 4 - Condom to Montreal = 18 km - nice walk, relatively easy - make sure you go out to
the 12th Century Roman Spa Excavation Site - it's about 2km out of town but a must see -
you can even stay out there on the site at a gite in the grounds. Did this the first time and
loved it. From Condom it's a nice, easy, quiet walk, but no shops or food along the way. If
you're feeling energetic along the way and wanting to do a few extra km's then Larrassingle
is ok to take a look at, but nothing spectacular. You'll see signs along the way, and can
decide if you want a diversion, or not. If you want a wonderful lunch when you get to
Montreal-du-Gers have the Cassoulet at Restuarant Chez Simone (right next to the Epicerie
in the town square, directly across from Office du Tourisme), Fantastic!!! See what you want
here and pick up any food you might need for the evening/breakfast - there is some great
foie gras and wines, etc., at the epicerie. If you are going to stay at the Gite d'etape, Villa
Gallo-Romaine de Seviac (I'd highly suggest that you do), there are cooking facilities there
but nowhere to get food or drink. Phone ahead in the morning or previous evening to
ensure space (05-62-29-48-57) 8 E a night. You will go down a hill leaving the village and
not really want to go back up. If you decide not to stay there or it is full, there is a hotel at the
bottom of the hill as you are leaving Montreal - Gite/restaurant Le Relais Saint Jacques,
Madame Tramont and her young son - she's quite the character and we couldn't
understand a word she said but the food was excellent as we had the evening meal for
11.50E, Bed in a double room is 12.50E each or dorm room with about 6 beds is 10E
each. If you can't stay at Seviac, walk out there, 2km from town and see it, you won't be
disappointed - I think they close in the afternoon around 2pm for a couple of hours, but ask
in the village.

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