Tasmania – Two Wheeled Tourism ~
Article by Cherie Thiessen
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Trafalgar Tours
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Cycling Tasmania - Photo by David Dossor
The Emmalisa chugged and chucked her way out of the harbour and up
the wide mouth of the choppy Derwent River. Only hours before we had
flown from Melbourne to Hobart on Qantas Airlines, determined to wring
every last drop out of our three weeks in Australia’s southernmost state,
Tasmania.
The stately dowager had
managed to accommodate its
31 passengers easily and we
were already into the wine
and chatting with our table
companions, Neil and Anna
from Brisbane. The dinner
cruise was a great way to
multi task, combining history,
information, scenery, and
ambience with dinner. Captain
Fells himself was at the wheel,
while two unharried staff
performed miracles in cooking
and serving up three course
meals in lumpy conditions, with
four choices of ‘mains’, along
with dessert and coffee.
Captain Fells’s historic ferries
have been leaving the dock
since 1975, and are very
popular with the locals. We
can already see why.
We’re well into dinner when
we slip under the lofty Tasman
Bridge and hear the tragic
story of the bulk ore carrier,
Lake Illawarra. In 1975, it
struck the bridge, and was
then in turn sunk by the two
pylons and three sections of
concrete decking falling from
the bridge. Seven crewmen
Emmalisa - Captain Fells
died, along with five unfortunate motorists in four cars. The ship’s remains
still lie 35 meters below.

The panorama of Hobart’s hills and harbor smudge with dusk, to be
replaced by a tiara of lights on the skyline, the magic above in contrast to
the wreckage below.

Two and a half hours later, we bid farewell to our new friends and say hello
to the next party coming aboard, a private charter. Time to get to our hotel
and transfer some clothes from our suitcases to our saddlebags. Tomorrow
we begin 12 days of cycle touring.  
We’ve booked with Manfred Kempeneer of Green Island Tours, a small but
experienced cycle touring business based in St. Helens. Although the
accompanied tours are his most popular option, Kempeneer also offers
independent self-guided tours, and that’s what we wanted. He hadn’t let us
down. After indicating we wanted to run the gamut of accommodation
ranges, from deluxe to hostel, we left the rest to him. He organized a tour
from Hobart to Evandale, with days off to explore a few scenic highlights en
route: Maria Island, Freycinet National Park, and the beaches around St.
Helens, a total of approximately 500 cycling kilometers.

Tonight was a budget option, a basic, centrally located hotel, where we
found gleaming, fully equipped Shogun hybrid bikes awaiting us, along with
a wonderfully detailed itinerary of our routing, right down to when and
where to buy provisions and what to watch for along the route. Inside one
waterproof, sturdy saddlebag, a bottle of Shiraz.

Day 1 dawned moody. Breezy, damp and cloudy, it dogged us as we met
the Tasman Bridge a second time, now crossing over instead of under. The
wind was wild; we dismounted, pushing against its barrage. Not a great
beginning but no worries, today we only had 30 kilometers to do, traveling
northeast to the historic village of Richmond.

A few hours later, under friendlier skies, we rolled into Richmond and found
the Barracks, beautifully preserved and fashioned into star quality tourist
cottages, a deluxe option.
Biking around Tasmania, Australia
There were several historic areas to check out in this pretty town, especially
the three superlatives: Richmond Bridge, Australia’s oldest bridge still in use
(1823), St John's Catholic church (1836), also Australia’s oldest, and the
Richmond Goal (1820s), the country’s oldest intact jail. Later, in our fully
equipped cottage, we pulled out the Shiraz and celebrated our first day of
cycling Tasmania.