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Medieval-modern Alsace, an aesthetic and culinary feast ~
And the pièce de résistance is Strasbourg - continued
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
I had my first view of the European Parliament,
whose location here – insisted on by France
when the European Community was founded
and headquartered in Brussels -- is the reason
why at certain times of the year several
thousand Parliamentarians and Eurocrats
descend on this town. Their buzz makes sleepy
Strasbourg sit up and vibrate. And they may be
the reason why so many world-class
restaurants are here: the Euro-MPs would put
up with nothing less!
Back on dry land, we stopped at the Alsatian
Museum, which occupies three Renaissance
houses dating from 1603. It’s a folk art
museum showing the traditional rural lifestyle
through furniture, ceramics, tools and
costumes. Here’s an artisan’s workshop. We
also liked the big glass modern art museum. A
bit of the old, a bit of the new.
The afternoon highlight was the elaborately carved
pink sandstone Cathedral, which dates from 1277.
The style is “high” or late Gothic, and between 1625
(when a fire aced out a competitor) and 1874, it was
the world’s tallest building. At 472 feet, it’s still the
fourth highest church in the world.
The Cathedral’s astronomical clock has a calculator,
unique in the world, which shows the day of the week
represented by mythological gods, months, leap years
and equinoxes, solar time, the phases of the moon
and positions of planets, signs of the zodiac and the
yearly dates of religious feasts on a perpetual
calendar.

Animated characters move at different hours of the
day. One angel sounds the bell; another turns over
an hour-glass. Characters representing life from
childhood to old age parade in front of Death. On the
last level are the Apostles, passing in front of Christ,
who blesses them, while a cock crows three times.
This happens at 12:30 pm, so if you want to see it,
arrive and get a ticket before 12:20 when the guards
shut the entrance gates to the clock enclosure.
That evening we chose dinner at the popular,
intimate Chez Yvonne where I shocked the
maître d’ by attempting to put moutarde on
the restaurant’s signature paté de fois gras.
Picture this: crème brûlée au foie gras et
pommes avec pain grillé aux figues.
Translation: crème brûlée with foie gras and
apples, accompanied by grilled bread baked
with figs. Delicious! The distraught lady grabbed the mustard out of my hand! Then I
had the choucroute garnie. By now you realize that fois gras and choucroute
(sauerkraut) are two essentials of Alsatian cuisine.
In the morning, we headed south on the wine
road, which has inviting villages to visit along
the way. The medieval Ribeauvillé and
Riquewihr are the best. We stopped at
Riquevihr, considered the most beautiful
village of the Alsace wine route. Its medieval
and Renaissance buildings and fortifications
date from the 13th, 15th and 17th centuries.
The main street is filled with shops and
restaurants. We relaxed at an outdoor café
before dutifully checking out the sights.