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Medieval-modern Alsace, an aesthetic and culinary feast ~
And the pièce de résistance is Strasbourg
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
An ancient center of modern Europe—how’s that for contradictions? I’ve always thought
of Strasbourg as a political town, the headquarters of the European Parliament. But on
my first visit there, I was stunned and delighted to find it charming, quaint, picturesque
– yes, all those words you see on the travel posters –quite small enough to be walkable
and full of charming streets and cafés. Maybe the Europeans knew what they were
doing when they agreed to put their parliament there.

The city was once called Strateburgum, the town at the crossroads. It dates to the time
of the Roman empire. Now it’s on the eastern border of France, just across from
Germany. And closer than ever to Paris: I found traveling easy on the very new, very
high-speed train that made the trip from the French capital in just 2 hours and 20
minutes.
Arriving, we dropped our bags at the small,
friendly Hotel du Dragon, just a block from the
Ill River, which surrounds the center of town,
and meandered to a nearby bridge to gaze at
the lazy boat traffic.  Later, we’d have to see
where that water went.

But first we headed for the main square, then
walked about to get a sense of the old town.
Boaters in Ill River
It’s a curious combination of buildings that date to the medieval and Renaissance eras,
the 18th and 19th centuries and modern times. Note the half-timbered houses in the
photo taken from the bridge. For me, the older and quainter the better!
We returned to the Place de la Cathédrale for
dinner at Maison Kammerzell, a stunning 16th-
century carved timber building, rich with
paintings and sculptures, that now houses a
very modern and first class restaurant. Food
is in its history: it was built by a cheese
merchant in 1427 (that date is carved in the
lintel of the entrance door) and is named
after its 19th century owner, Philippe
Kammerzell, a grocer. The upper stories were
built in 1589. But there’s nothing outdated
about the French haute cuisine you’ll get
Kammerzell House
there. Don’t forget that Strasbourg sits on the Rhine. Try the choucroute with three
fishes, or roast fish prepared at your table. Coq au vin here is coq au Riesling, naturally.
The next morning, to get our bearings, we
took the bâteau-mouche tour, a very excellent
decision, because cruising the river is a perfect
way to get a sense of the city without
tramping over every mile or kilometer. The
glass top kept out the weather, but as the
sun beat down about noon, I wished I’d
brought a wide-brimmed hat. Best go in the
morning or afternoon, not at midday.
Headsets connect to a recorded spiel in
Bateau Mouche Tour Boat
numerous languages. Sit up front for the best view.
We cruised under bridges and through locks,
into la Petite France (little France) with
charming 16th and 17th-century houses on
both banks. This is where fishermen, millers
and tanners lived, all using the River Ill for
their work. We would return later for a
delightful meal at Au Pont St-Martin, on a
balcony overlooking the river.
Tour boat view
We passed under the old fortifications, a
17th century reinforcement of a medieval
structure. There are 13 arcades from which
floodgates can drop to create the Vauban
Dam. The second level was added in the 19th
century.
fortifications