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Rio de Janeiro - It's colonial, it's modern and it's a visual and sensual delight!
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
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It was night and people were lounging on the Copacabana beach, lit brightly by street
lamps planted every few feet. We strolled on the sand to get a bit more whiff of ocean,
then turned back across the street to the Sofitel Rio de Janeiro Copacabana where we
were staying. Near the entrance, I notice a blue police booth strategically placed under
some trees. I'd heard that Río was unsafe, but very strong government security action –
bright lights, policing – is turning that around. If you've put off going to Río de Janeiro out
of crime fears, think again!

The ocean, the bay, the lagoon: Rio makes good aesthetic use of the water that seems to
surround it. From the hotel terrace, I could view the sea, the gray rocks and peaks of
mountains. Downstairs, the cobble stone sidewalks of black and white mosaic waves remind
one of the Atlantic. Copacabana was a fishermen's village, and there is still a cooperative
whose members catch sea bass by hand, not with industrial gear. Out at night and back by 5
am, they are on the beach in the morning selling fish till 9.
Everyone's vision of Río includes Sugar Loaf, the mountain quite near Copacabana at the
entrance to Guanabara Bay. It got the name, Pão de Açúcar, because it looked like a
Portuguese sugar cone. You go there for the view from nearly 1300 feet. We climbed into an
enclosed cable car to get to the first level where there's a picnic area and, I was told, little
monkeys with white stars on their faces. I didn't see any! I did see a gaggle of rock climbers
on their way to ascend to the next level. But I went up the old-fashioned motorized way!
From either level, I could look out and see the ocean beaches: Copacabana, Ipanema, and
Leme, back-dropped by white buildings from the 40s, 50s and 60s; then the historical and
financial quarter of the city; a residential and industrial sector, and the newest part, with
industry and laboratories. Flying around were vultures and frigate birds that looked like
seagulls.
I like to see city streets and old towns, and
I took a day's whirlwind tour of Río. Rich in
history it was the capital in 1763-1960, so
embassy buildings are still there. And,
downtown, the former parliament, Baroque
churches, and the colonial style cathedral
where emperors were crowned. The church
was built by ship captain who was caught
in a storm and promised to construct it if he
survived. This sea city of course has a large
marina for sailboats.
I liked the 17th-century Portuguese style
streets near Praça 15. There are just four
blocks left, including the pink house where
Carmen Miranda lived. She was a hat
maker! And I thought that this 1940s
maracas-wielding dancer had just suddenly
piled fruit on her head for effect. Just off
that street, on Thursday and Friday from 5
till 9 or 10, office and bank workers pour
out of the buildings and sit at sidewalk
cafes or mingle on the cobblestones for an
impromptu party.


I wondered why so many of the bars and
restaurants and buildings kept their old style. Guide
Luiz Augusto told me that when renovations are
made that preserve the old facades, there is a tax
benefit. So, a lot of Brazilian bars are a charming old
Portuguese design.
One expects old churches in places with colonial
roots, and there are some lovely Baroque and
colonial structures in Río. I was hardly prepared for
the ultra-modern San Sebastian Cathedral, a beehive
shaped cone designed by Edgar Fonseca and built in
1976 that seats 5,000 people. What's quite amazing
is that there is natural air conditioning. Those little
windows that make the building seem like a beehive
suck in the air. I wandered around inside to gaze at
the stained glass windows with not only Biblical
scenes but pictures showing the country's racial
history. Some of the priests were kept busy having
their photos taken with tourists.