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Paris: Mixing The Modern & The Traditional
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
On a recent trip to Paris, I was passing the Place
Saint-Germain on the Left Bank. At one corner,
several musicians were playing Dixieland, then
switched to World Music. It was part of the
"Journées de Saint Germain-des-Prés," the Days
of Saint German. Their backdrop was the
imposing medieval Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-
Prés.

At curbside, you could see a street sign honoring
two of France’s most prominent writers, Jean
Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir.
Place Sartre-Beauvoir
It was fine weather, and people were hurrying or
meandering along the boulevard, some pausing
as I did to gather in a semi-circle around the horn
players.

Then I continued on the Boulevard Saint-Germain,
passing the sidewalk espresso drinkers at Les
Deux Maggots. I stopped a block from the square
at the corner of the Rue St. Benoit where I found
a sidewalk seat at the Café de Flore. Both cafés,
of course, were haunts of Sartre and de Beauvoir
and their literary clan. Writers then came here
Cafe de Flore
with their notebooks. At the Flore, I could relax for a moment with a glass of wine, repress
the urge to turn on my computer, but give in to the need to make some phone calls.
Turning into St. Benoit, I walked toward the
Seine on this narrow side street that
contributes to the neighborhood charm.  I
passed a local gourmet favorite, Le Petit Zinc,
and then walked into the low key elegant
boutique Hotel Bel-Ami. It was once the site of
an establishment that printed the documents of
the National Assembly, and then it housed a
famous jazz club. The building was recreated by
Grace Leo Andrieu of GLA Hotels. A fascinating
person in her own right, she was born in Hong
Kong, did her university work at Cornell, and
Bel-Ami Hotel Facade
now lives in Paris. She wanted the Bel-Ami to continue the quarter’s literary tradition and
named it after “Bel Ami,” written by Guy de Maupassant in 1885. It’s the story of another
writer, a corrupt journalist, who becomes successful by using his powerful, intelligent, and
wealthy mistresses.
The cool lobby was decorated in gray and
purple, with couches and ottomans beckoning
to loungers. Not far from the entrance to the
salon Maupassant, a lobby café serving drinks
and snacks, were two computers hooked to the
internet, available free to guests.

I picked up the card-key, walked the few steps
to two elevators, and slipped the card into an
elevator cabin's security slot. I always feel safe
in small hotels with lots of security. Moments
later, I was gazing around a spacious room
Bel-Ami Hotel Room
with a large bed, pillow-strewn couch, and a comfortable chair and desk for my laptop.