Monaco Mixes Gauzy Fantasy With Stark Reality
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
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The Principality of Monaco is a charming, complex place: part fantasy, part reality.

When we arrived, we picked up a city-tour bus that deposited us at the Prince's Palace just in time for the
changing of the guard. It was an appealing bit of whimsy in the drama of a medieval kingdom which dates to
feudal conflicts of the Middle Ages. In the 14th century, the reigning Grimaldi family came out ahead. A 13th-
century Genoese fortress became the site of the royal palace.


The fantasy was brought up to date by the Hollywood marriage of American actress Grace Kelly to Monaco's
Prince Ranier in 1956, then brought back to reality by her death in 1982 at the age of 52. She crashed in an
auto accident on a twisting mountain road from France where the family had a country home. A hokey
painting of the couple and their children dominates a room in the palace. Fantasy and charm suffuse the
palace, the boats in the harbors, and the stunning gardens.
Monaco Changing of the Guard
Monaco Prince's Palace and Wine from Grimaldi Former Vineyard
We visited the cream-colored palace
with rooms that seemed to echo the
tastes of all the other European royals
– some old tapestries, some Chinese
vases, painted ceilings. Then we had
lunch at Castelroc, a restaurant with
views of the Palace and the sea. And
the bronze cannons that Louis XIV
gave to Monaco. Because we wanted
to sit outside, we missed the Michelin
one-star menu and just had a
sandwich. But we discovered an
excellent wine from the Château des
Demoiselles, a vineyard that used to
belong to the Grimaldis!
Monaco Cathedral and sidewalk Cafe in Historic Center
Afterwards, we walked leisurely
through the Saint Martin Gardens
along the edge of the rock on which
the old city was built. It is dotted with
sculptures and is one of many
beautiful gardens in Monaco. From the
gardens, we admired the Cathedral
which glittered white in the sun. We
passed through narrow streets of the
historic quarter with its pastel houses
and sidewalk cafés.  
Then, we went to the Belle Époque casino at Monte-Carlo in the eastern part of the city-state. It was started
by Prince Charles III, who in the mid-19th century figured out that a gambling center could be a
money-maker. The casino opened, and the area was given an Italian name in his honor: Monte-Carlo, Mount
Charles.
Monte Carlo Casino
A building on one side houses the slot machines. We walked around inside and decided it was pretty much
like what we'd seen in Las Vegas. The elegant villa at the center is where rooms for blackjack and roulette
and other sophisticated games are played. We peeked in the doors of a few of the rooms, but as we don't
gamble decided not to pay the entrance fees. No photos are allowed, even at the main door, as the
door-keeper made clear. Well, serious gamblers probably don't want their photos taken!
Monaco's Apartment Houses with Yachts in Harbor
Everywhere, we gazed at stunning views of yachts in the harbors. As we rode on the city-tour bus, we
became aware of another reality: the large number of high-rise apartment buildings. Walking on a
promenade, I heard a tourist comment on them in wonderment. He didn't know what I thought was widely
known -- that there are so many luxury high-rises to accommodate people who have moved their citizenship
to Monaco to avoid their home country taxes. In addition, the casino (like all casinos) helps money-launderers
wash their cash with chips. No one asks where the betting money comes from, winnings are declared and
ill-gotten gains can be spent.