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Seeing & Savoring Historical & Modern Madrid
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
| Pg 1 of 3 / Next Page |
| WAVE Journey.com Women's Adventures, Vacations & Experiences ~ Your Journey Starts Here! |
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or services that cater to women, WAVE Journey is your number one online travel resource.
WAVE Journey is your one-stop online resource for women-oriented travel businesses & services
around the world.
WAVE Journey is for every woman to enjoy. If you love to travel, cook, read or revel in outdoor activities this website
is for you. If you are looking to connect with other like-minded women or if you are interested in finding businesses
or services that cater to women, WAVE Journey is your number one online travel resource.
I love visiting places where I feel not only in the present but in the past. That is the excitement and drama of
Madrid.
History -- centuries past and the last one -- is told in the art and architecture of Spain's stunning capital. The
historic memories of the privileged royals, the opposition to Franco, the triumph of democracy, and now the
demonstrations of today's political protesters show a vibrant country whose people connect to and live their
historical roots.
So much of it can be experienced in the historic central plazas, the Puerta del Sol and the Plaza Mayor, and in
the spectacular palaces, religious houses and museums. Here's how we saw the best of it in just a few days,
visiting the famous sights but also meandering around neighborhoods. A highlight was an evening tapas tour
that mixed piquant history with wine, chorizos and other good-to-eat-and-drink Spanish delicacies.
Madrid.
History -- centuries past and the last one -- is told in the art and architecture of Spain's stunning capital. The
historic memories of the privileged royals, the opposition to Franco, the triumph of democracy, and now the
demonstrations of today's political protesters show a vibrant country whose people connect to and live their
historical roots.
So much of it can be experienced in the historic central plazas, the Puerta del Sol and the Plaza Mayor, and in
the spectacular palaces, religious houses and museums. Here's how we saw the best of it in just a few days,
visiting the famous sights but also meandering around neighborhoods. A highlight was an evening tapas tour
that mixed piquant history with wine, chorizos and other good-to-eat-and-drink Spanish delicacies.
The center of the city, the Puerta del Sol (gateway to the sun) is at Spain's kilometer zero, and everything
radiates from there to the city and nation. The symbol of Madrid, a bear climbing a Madroño tree, is a striking,
surprising statue and also a popular meeting place.
But when I visited, there was another presence in this historic plaza, the Indignados, the mostly young
"indignant" activists protesting government austerity policies that (as elsewhere in the West), seem to many
of the young and the poor designed to have them pay for the mistakes and profits of the rich and powerful. At
booths set up in the square, the Indignados invited Madrileños and visitors to meetings to discuss the crisis.
radiates from there to the city and nation. The symbol of Madrid, a bear climbing a Madroño tree, is a striking,
surprising statue and also a popular meeting place.
But when I visited, there was another presence in this historic plaza, the Indignados, the mostly young
"indignant" activists protesting government austerity policies that (as elsewhere in the West), seem to many
of the young and the poor designed to have them pay for the mistakes and profits of the rich and powerful. At
booths set up in the square, the Indignados invited Madrileños and visitors to meetings to discuss the crisis.
The Puerta del Sol may be the current political center, but when we
walked a few minutes to the historic center, the Plaza Mayor (the
"grand square"), we were taken back to a time when there weren't
common challengers to political power, just the kings and queens
and royals along with their ecclesiastical retinues. The royals
inhabited the grand buildings now occupied by the government
tourism office as well as by restaurants and shops. The bottoms of
the buildings are stone, then, on the three stories above you see
white shuttered windows and red painted stone blocks, black
wrought iron balconies and at the top a gray mansard roof. In the
center is the bronze statue of Philip III on horseback.
We would come back to it numerous times. Sitting at one of the café
walked a few minutes to the historic center, the Plaza Mayor (the
"grand square"), we were taken back to a time when there weren't
common challengers to political power, just the kings and queens
and royals along with their ecclesiastical retinues. The royals
inhabited the grand buildings now occupied by the government
tourism office as well as by restaurants and shops. The bottoms of
the buildings are stone, then, on the three stories above you see
white shuttered windows and red painted stone blocks, black
wrought iron balconies and at the top a gray mansard roof. In the
center is the bronze statue of Philip III on horseback.
We would come back to it numerous times. Sitting at one of the café
tables was a great place for people watching and relaxing with a chato (a glass of wine.)
On one morning, we met our guide Rosa and followed her through
the narrow streets surrounding the Plaza Mayor. A high point was a
visit to the Casa de la Villa, the 17th-century pink stone building that
houses the old town hall. It has a gorgeous reception room with a
marble stained-glass ceiling, a huge crystal chandelier, tapestries,
and statues. But most riveting for me was the simple plaque
commemorating the deaths of people who worked in the city hall
during the 1936-39 Civil War. They would have been loyalists,
republicans, opposed to the fascist attackers led by Francisco Franco.
The plaque was approved in 1978, just three years after Franco's
death, and it was dedicated in 1980.
the narrow streets surrounding the Plaza Mayor. A high point was a
visit to the Casa de la Villa, the 17th-century pink stone building that
houses the old town hall. It has a gorgeous reception room with a
marble stained-glass ceiling, a huge crystal chandelier, tapestries,
and statues. But most riveting for me was the simple plaque
commemorating the deaths of people who worked in the city hall
during the 1936-39 Civil War. They would have been loyalists,
republicans, opposed to the fascist attackers led by Francisco Franco.
The plaque was approved in 1978, just three years after Franco's
death, and it was dedicated in 1980.
Less bitter-sweet than the plaque, and sweeter in its own way was the
Convent of Corpus Cristi which is inhabited by cloistered nuns. The only
contact they have with outside visitors like us is commercial. They make
and sell cakes and cookies!
The huge brown carved door of the convent's stone building has a sign
directing visitors to ring a bell. Rosa did it and then said over the intercom
that we wanted to buy "dulces" (sweets). We were buzzed in and
followed her through some small connecting rooms to a space where an
opening in the wall revealed a large dark brown wooden turntable.
Next to it was posted a list of sweets: almond cakes, orange cookies,
light and fluffy "sequillos," shortbread and more. Quite modern in their
marketing, the nuns advertise that some items are made without sugar.
Rosa called to the sister and asked what was for sale that day. From
behind the turntable came a disembodied voice. You'll probably not visit
another shop like this one!
Convent of Corpus Cristi which is inhabited by cloistered nuns. The only
contact they have with outside visitors like us is commercial. They make
and sell cakes and cookies!
The huge brown carved door of the convent's stone building has a sign
directing visitors to ring a bell. Rosa did it and then said over the intercom
that we wanted to buy "dulces" (sweets). We were buzzed in and
followed her through some small connecting rooms to a space where an
opening in the wall revealed a large dark brown wooden turntable.
Next to it was posted a list of sweets: almond cakes, orange cookies,
light and fluffy "sequillos," shortbread and more. Quite modern in their
marketing, the nuns advertise that some items are made without sugar.
Rosa called to the sister and asked what was for sale that day. From
behind the turntable came a disembodied voice. You'll probably not visit
another shop like this one!
But life wasn't always cushy for the aristocracy, especially if you were a woman who didn't like the family's
arranged marriage plans. The Monasterio de las Descalzas (the barefoot ones) was founded in 1559 by Joan
of Austria. Her daughter lived there, escaping a marriage to Felipe II, and it became a hideaway for other
women who found more freedom in its confines than in forced marriages. They were known as the "Barefoot
Royals." The building is filled with treasures of liturgical art, many of them brought by these women as their
"dowries." It became a museum in 1960. There are some dramatic paintings, including ones by Titian and
Breughel. I liked best a work at the top of the grand staircase that shows the young princess made famous by
Velasquez's "Las Meninas" in a family portrait where instead of being the center of attention she is posed
modestly with her parents, including her father Felipe IV.
Nuns still live in a separate section in the convent, but though you can't see them, you may be lucky as we
were to hear the bell-clear voice of a cloistered sister behind a locked door practicing a religious song for the
service.
arranged marriage plans. The Monasterio de las Descalzas (the barefoot ones) was founded in 1559 by Joan
of Austria. Her daughter lived there, escaping a marriage to Felipe II, and it became a hideaway for other
women who found more freedom in its confines than in forced marriages. They were known as the "Barefoot
Royals." The building is filled with treasures of liturgical art, many of them brought by these women as their
"dowries." It became a museum in 1960. There are some dramatic paintings, including ones by Titian and
Breughel. I liked best a work at the top of the grand staircase that shows the young princess made famous by
Velasquez's "Las Meninas" in a family portrait where instead of being the center of attention she is posed
modestly with her parents, including her father Felipe IV.
Nuns still live in a separate section in the convent, but though you can't see them, you may be lucky as we
were to hear the bell-clear voice of a cloistered sister behind a locked door practicing a religious song for the
service.
I love palaces, and on another morning we headed to the west of the
historic center to visit an 18th century Royal Palace that is as grand as
most. Like others of the period, it was lived in, and gives you a sense
of what life for the royals was like, for Philip V who built it and those
who followed. Interesting how whatever European palace you visit,
the royals seemed to have had similar tastes – or the same architects
and decorators. They favored Chinese ("chinoiserie") for example. And
lots of gilt and hanging chandeliers. And they liked covering every inch
of wall and ceiling with sumptuous historical and religious tapestries
and paintings.
historic center to visit an 18th century Royal Palace that is as grand as
most. Like others of the period, it was lived in, and gives you a sense
of what life for the royals was like, for Philip V who built it and those
who followed. Interesting how whatever European palace you visit,
the royals seemed to have had similar tastes – or the same architects
and decorators. They favored Chinese ("chinoiserie") for example. And
lots of gilt and hanging chandeliers. And they liked covering every inch
of wall and ceiling with sumptuous historical and religious tapestries
and paintings.
Some of the royals' portraits are in the world class Prado, known best
for great 16th, 17th and 18th-century art. We stopped in almost as a
traveler's duty. But I must admit that, aside from viewing "Las
Meninas", I was more entranced by another museum an easy walk
south of the Prado past the Botanical Gardens. Whatever city I visit, I
head for the modern art museum. It tells you not only about the
talent and style of the country's recent and contemporary painters,
but about the issues that have absorbed and engaged them. That is
nowhere as true as in a country that has suffered repression. Such a
trove of important art is the Reina Sofía Museum, named after the
queen in this parliamentary monarchy.
The Reina Sofía is the home of Picasso's famous stark white and
for great 16th, 17th and 18th-century art. We stopped in almost as a
traveler's duty. But I must admit that, aside from viewing "Las
Meninas", I was more entranced by another museum an easy walk
south of the Prado past the Botanical Gardens. Whatever city I visit, I
head for the modern art museum. It tells you not only about the
talent and style of the country's recent and contemporary painters,
but about the issues that have absorbed and engaged them. That is
nowhere as true as in a country that has suffered repression. Such a
trove of important art is the Reina Sofía Museum, named after the
queen in this parliamentary monarchy.
The Reina Sofía is the home of Picasso's famous stark white and
shades of gray and black "Guernica," his cry of horror at the bombing of that Spanish town by the forces of the
fascist Franco. But "Guernica" is surrounded by a trove of less well known artistic commentary on both sides of
the political conflict.
fascist Franco. But "Guernica" is surrounded by a trove of less well known artistic commentary on both sides of
the political conflict.
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