Machu Picchu: The Other Way Around ~ Article by Ethel DeMarr
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If you have been discouraged about hiking to Machu
Picchu by tales of overcrowding on the Inka Trail,
consider hiking the “other way around,” the Salkantay
Trail. Acting on the advice from our friends at Peruvian
Odyssey ( an experienced Peruvian travel agency,) we
chose this alternative route for our trip earlier this
year. We were not disappointed. It was a trip of a
lifetime!
Named for Mt. Salkantay (20,571 ft.), this route hosts
no more than 100 hikers per day rather than the 500
allowed on the classic Inka Trail.
During our four day trek along
this route in late April, we saw
no more than 20 hikers on any
given day and we were alone
at our campsites two out of
three nights.
That will not happen on the classic Inka Trail. On the last day of your hike,
you will climb through the lush subtropical forest to Llactapata (8,858 ft. -
an Inka site) from where you will get an amazing and rarely seen view of
Machu Picchu - from the other side. Every breath you have struggled for over
the past three days will be worth it.
Like the more famous trail, the Salkantay route requires a permit and
requires traveling with a licensed guide. We choose Peruvian Odyssey with
their 26 years of experience, excellent guides, cooks and equipment. They
will take care of your every need from the moment you arrive in Lima, to
sight-seeing in Cusco and throughout the hike. All you need are your hiking
boots and a day pack. At the end of a long day on the trail, you will arrive at
your campsite and find your tent erected and the dining tent awaiting you.
The meals will surpass your expectations as will the scenery!
If camping is not your thing, the Salkantay Trail offers something the other
trail does not: actual lodges! Mountain Lodges of Peru provides four lodges
along the same route. This company schedules departures with their own
guides for their adventure. But for us, we wanted the total experience! Tents
and all!
The Salkantay route covers approximately 35 miles and takes four days.
Although the daily mileage does not seem lengthy, consider the altitude.
Whether camping or staying in a lodge, be prepared for hiking above 8,000 ft.
everyday and summiting the pass at Mt. Salkantay (Apacheta) at 16,000 ft. To
acclimatize, plan to arrive in Cusco several days ahead of your planned hike
dates. Cusco is a fascinating destination, a beautiful blend of Spanish colonial
and Inka architecture. There are many historical sites to see in this area, and
Cusco has an exciting dining scene and world class hotels.
Peruvian Odyssey picked us up
at our Cusco hotel at 6:00 a.m.
on day one of our hike. With a
private van, driver (Raul), guide
(Marcial) and cooks (Leo and
Leandro), my husband and I
traveled approximately 4 hours
to the little mountain town of
Mollenpata. Here we had a short
coffee break while our guide
connected with our muleteers
(to carry our gear) and Leo
stocked up on last minute food
items. I bought a wooden
walking stick which I christened
“Atahualpa” (the Inka ruler killed
by the Spanish in 1533).
After a few minutes, we loaded
up in the van and drove another
hour up the very bumpy, unpaved
road to the tiny village of
Marcocasa. (Some visitors chose
to hike from Mollenpata.) At
Marcocasa we met our muleteers,
their pack animals, and began our
hike. The muleteers and cooks started out on the trail first, while we followed.