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| WAVE Journey |
| Women's Adventures, Vacations, Experiences ~ Your Journey Starts Here! |
Poland: Medieval Glories Await in Krakow
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
A Woman's Directory For Travel and Life.
WAVE Journey is your one-stop online resource for women-oriented businesses and
services around the world.
WAVE Journey is for every woman to enjoy. If you love to travel, cook, read or revel in outdoor activities this
website is for you. If you are looking to connect with other like-minded women or if you are interested in
finding businesses or services that cater to women, WAVE Journey is your number one online resource.
WAVE Journey is your one-stop online resource for women-oriented businesses and
services around the world.
WAVE Journey is for every woman to enjoy. If you love to travel, cook, read or revel in outdoor activities this
website is for you. If you are looking to connect with other like-minded women or if you are interested in
finding businesses or services that cater to women, WAVE Journey is your number one online resource.
| Andrzej and tour boat |
| St. Mary's Cathedral - Kosciol Mariacki |
When I arrived in Krakow, I saw the city from the
Vistula River, as had many of the founders who
used the river for transport. The "founders" takes
us back to settlers in the first century, though
another millennium would pass before there was
much to see that remains on the river banks.
Krakow became the capital of the country in the
11th century, which made it a target for conquest,
and the Tatars in the 13th century tried three times.
From the boat, I could see the remains of Polish
defenses, a 700-year old stone fortification wall
along the Vistula.
Vistula River, as had many of the founders who
used the river for transport. The "founders" takes
us back to settlers in the first century, though
another millennium would pass before there was
much to see that remains on the river banks.
Krakow became the capital of the country in the
11th century, which made it a target for conquest,
and the Tatars in the 13th century tried three times.
From the boat, I could see the remains of Polish
defenses, a 700-year old stone fortification wall
along the Vistula.
I had a private tour, because I was the only passenger on a small canopy-covered boat
captained by Andrzej, who told me he'd been running boats all his life. I wondered if his other
boats were any bigger than this one! On the path alongside, people, oblivious to history,
were jogging, biking and sitting on benches.
captained by Andrzej, who told me he'd been running boats all his life. I wondered if his other
boats were any bigger than this one! On the path alongside, people, oblivious to history,
were jogging, biking and sitting on benches.
We followed the winding water, the banks planted
with trees at least a few hundred years old. I
noticed boats tied up along the way. We passed a
huge billboard which advertised some
entertainment; it was a jarring intrusion. Our main
destination was Wawel Castle, a brown brick
structure with green bronze steeples and a round
tower, small windows and roofs of red tiles.
Krakow was the royal capital from the 14th to the
end of the 16th century, and this was the royal
residence. It was built beginning in the 14th
century in styles, depending on the taste of the
with trees at least a few hundred years old. I
noticed boats tied up along the way. We passed a
huge billboard which advertised some
entertainment; it was a jarring intrusion. Our main
destination was Wawel Castle, a brown brick
structure with green bronze steeples and a round
tower, small windows and roofs of red tiles.
Krakow was the royal capital from the 14th to the
end of the 16th century, and this was the royal
residence. It was built beginning in the 14th
century in styles, depending on the taste of the
moment, of Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic. Viewed from the river, it was a fascinating
pastiche.
pastiche.
| Wawel Castle and restaurant-boat |
The next day, I went off to a European economic and political conference at Krynica, a couple
of hours drive to the north, which offered another sense of history – even the presence of the
anti-communist shipyard workers leader Lech Walensa who helped bring down the Soviet
dominated regime. When I returned to Krakow, I saw the city with an old acquaintance, a
former member of the German parliament who by chance had been at the Krynica event. We
were both fascinated by Krakow's medieval past.
Our first mission was to visit Wawel Castle, this time from the inside! Wawel is worthy of its
status as one of the country's premier monuments and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Closer
up, I could get a sense of the coursing of history, each part represented by part of the
architectural mélange, especially from a point outside of the Cathedral, its numerous
architectural segments were a cacophony of style. The old arcaded courtyard conjured up
visions of processionals and military jousts.
of hours drive to the north, which offered another sense of history – even the presence of the
anti-communist shipyard workers leader Lech Walensa who helped bring down the Soviet
dominated regime. When I returned to Krakow, I saw the city with an old acquaintance, a
former member of the German parliament who by chance had been at the Krynica event. We
were both fascinated by Krakow's medieval past.
Our first mission was to visit Wawel Castle, this time from the inside! Wawel is worthy of its
status as one of the country's premier monuments and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Closer
up, I could get a sense of the coursing of history, each part represented by part of the
architectural mélange, especially from a point outside of the Cathedral, its numerous
architectural segments were a cacophony of style. The old arcaded courtyard conjured up
visions of processionals and military jousts.
| Wawel Cathedral and arcaded courtyard |
More medieval glories awaited us at Rynek Główny, the historic market square that was
designed in 1297. The huge Cloth Hall, built in the 14th century, is still there, still filled with
craftsmen. Around the square, visitors and local were hanging out, as they might have then.
Diners enjoyed meals and drank wine and beer at sidewalk cafés around the edges. A few
wandering musicians (I almost said minstrels) played. We joined the crowd staring at the
double-towered St. Mary's Cathedral waiting for the famous bugler.
The legend is that in 1241, a guardsman in the tower saw invading Tatar forces approaching
and played his trumpet in warning. A Tatar arrow pierced his neck, but his warning had been
heard. Now, (and locals say for 700 years), a bugler appears at the high window in the belfry
atop the taller tower every hour to blow his horn. He stops playing suddenly to echo the
historical sudden death that stopped that medieval bugler's tune. When I visited Krakow in
the mid-80s, during the Communist period, in a shop on a side-street I bought a drawing (by
an artist named Mleorko) of the bugler lying inside the bell tower with an arrow through his
heart. At the window, blowing the seized horn, was a man in a military uniform representing
General Wojciech Jaruzelski, then head of state.
designed in 1297. The huge Cloth Hall, built in the 14th century, is still there, still filled with
craftsmen. Around the square, visitors and local were hanging out, as they might have then.
Diners enjoyed meals and drank wine and beer at sidewalk cafés around the edges. A few
wandering musicians (I almost said minstrels) played. We joined the crowd staring at the
double-towered St. Mary's Cathedral waiting for the famous bugler.
The legend is that in 1241, a guardsman in the tower saw invading Tatar forces approaching
and played his trumpet in warning. A Tatar arrow pierced his neck, but his warning had been
heard. Now, (and locals say for 700 years), a bugler appears at the high window in the belfry
atop the taller tower every hour to blow his horn. He stops playing suddenly to echo the
historical sudden death that stopped that medieval bugler's tune. When I visited Krakow in
the mid-80s, during the Communist period, in a shop on a side-street I bought a drawing (by
an artist named Mleorko) of the bugler lying inside the bell tower with an arrow through his
heart. At the window, blowing the seized horn, was a man in a military uniform representing
General Wojciech Jaruzelski, then head of state.
The Old Town spreads out for blocks
around the square. It's part of the
UNESCO heritage site. We wandered
around cobbled streets that were
lined with low stone houses. I saw a
familiar portrait outside one old
building and discovered it was the
former residence of Pope John Paul.
It's now an Archdiocesan Museum. I
especially liked the medieval
Floriańska Gate through which royal
processions entered the town. It was
built in 1307. I trust it will last longer
than the MacDonald's that's now too
close for aesthetic comfort.
around the square. It's part of the
UNESCO heritage site. We wandered
around cobbled streets that were
lined with low stone houses. I saw a
familiar portrait outside one old
building and discovered it was the
former residence of Pope John Paul.
It's now an Archdiocesan Museum. I
especially liked the medieval
Floriańska Gate through which royal
processions entered the town. It was
built in 1307. I trust it will last longer
than the MacDonald's that's now too
close for aesthetic comfort.
| Florianska Gate - built in 1307 |