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| WAVE Journey |
| Women's Adventures, Vacations, Experiences ~ Your Journey Starts Here! |
Enchanting Istria: sea, boats, cafés and antiquities – even Roman ruins ~
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
| Pg 1 of 4 / Next Page |
A Woman's Directory For Travel and Life.
WAVE Journey is your one-stop online resource for women-oriented businesses and
services around the world.
WAVE Journey is for every woman to enjoy. If you love to travel, cook, read or revel in outdoor activities this
website is for you. If you are looking to connect with other like-minded women or if you are interested in
finding businesses or services that cater to women, WAVE Journey is your number one online resource.
WAVE Journey is your one-stop online resource for women-oriented businesses and
services around the world.
WAVE Journey is for every woman to enjoy. If you love to travel, cook, read or revel in outdoor activities this
website is for you. If you are looking to connect with other like-minded women or if you are interested in
finding businesses or services that cater to women, WAVE Journey is your number one online resource.
We were sitting at Sidro, a sidewalk café in the Rovinj harbor sipping wine and looking at the
people strolling on the wide esplanade lined with pastel-colored houses. In one direction we
gazed at a jumble of sailing and fishing boats. In another we saw the white bulk of the Santa
Eufemia church perched on a hill dominating the town. It was one of those perfect evenings,
which seem to occur often in Istria, the peninsula at the northern part of Croatia's Dalmatian
coast on the Adriatic Sea.
people strolling on the wide esplanade lined with pastel-colored houses. In one direction we
gazed at a jumble of sailing and fishing boats. In another we saw the white bulk of the Santa
Eufemia church perched on a hill dominating the town. It was one of those perfect evenings,
which seem to occur often in Istria, the peninsula at the northern part of Croatia's Dalmatian
coast on the Adriatic Sea.
Sidro, which means anchor, opened in 1966, which makes it the oldest restaurant in town.
It was founded by Krsto Stojanović, grandfather of the owners. He came from Serbia, on
Croatia's eastern border. One of his grandsons told us how he had gotten to Istria: "In 1966
my grandfather said lot of Italians left Istria after the Partisans [the fighters against Mussolini
fascism] came. People from Serbia, especially artists, painters, musicians, found in Rovinj the
beauty of the Mediterranean."
Before the Balkan war, there were just a handful of cafés there. After Krsto died in the 1980’s,
his daughter Gordana Paoletti took over the business. Tourism peaked in the 80s, and then the
war came and shuttered everything. But the family didn't leave. Now her sons Gordan and
Vanja run the place.
It was founded by Krsto Stojanović, grandfather of the owners. He came from Serbia, on
Croatia's eastern border. One of his grandsons told us how he had gotten to Istria: "In 1966
my grandfather said lot of Italians left Istria after the Partisans [the fighters against Mussolini
fascism] came. People from Serbia, especially artists, painters, musicians, found in Rovinj the
beauty of the Mediterranean."
Before the Balkan war, there were just a handful of cafés there. After Krsto died in the 1980’s,
his daughter Gordana Paoletti took over the business. Tourism peaked in the 80s, and then the
war came and shuttered everything. But the family didn't leave. Now her sons Gordan and
Vanja run the place.
Now lining the harbor are a few dozen cafés and
restaurants running from old local bars to
table-clothed establishments. Sidro is a gem. Its
food is a fusion of Istrian and Serbian cuisines,
overseen by a chef who has been at the restaurant
for 40 years. Gordan emerged from the kitchen with
a fish platter so we could choose what we wanted.
The meal was superb, built around sea bass, orada,
Croatian sheep cheese, and Malvazija, the very
good local white wine.
restaurants running from old local bars to
table-clothed establishments. Sidro is a gem. Its
food is a fusion of Istrian and Serbian cuisines,
overseen by a chef who has been at the restaurant
for 40 years. Gordan emerged from the kitchen with
a fish platter so we could choose what we wanted.
The meal was superb, built around sea bass, orada,
Croatian sheep cheese, and Malvazija, the very
good local white wine.
After dinner, we
wandered around the Old
Town, going through a
stone archway up narrow
steps lined with cafés and
shops. One inventive
individual had placed
cushions and stools up a
row of steps and landings
and served up recorded
jazz with the drinks. We
climbed to Santa Eufemia;
the 18th century church
that was a ghostly
presence at the top of the
hill.
wandered around the Old
Town, going through a
stone archway up narrow
steps lined with cafés and
shops. One inventive
individual had placed
cushions and stools up a
row of steps and landings
and served up recorded
jazz with the drinks. We
climbed to Santa Eufemia;
the 18th century church
that was a ghostly
presence at the top of the
hill.
Istria and Italy have a long and interesting connection. Istria was Italian before it was Croatian.
In fact, it was Roman before it was Italian. When the Romans departed, it was populated by the
Slavs and in the middle ages taken over by the Venetians across the Adriatic; they ruled for 500
years. Other forces displaced them, then Italians governed again till World War II. Almost
everyone speaks Italian. Most street signs are in Croatian and Italian. (Istria is Italian; Istra is
Croation.) And there are astonishing Roman ruins and the very savory influence of Italian
cookery.
Monte Mulini
We were staying at Monte Mulini, about a 10-minute walk along the sea from the Old Town. It is
built where there once was a small mountain (monte) with a mill (mulino). Then in 2008, Maistra,
Istria's premier hotel company, created an elegant five-star boutique hotel, the only one in town.
Walking into the lobby, I was stunned by the view through the three-story high glass wall that
opens onto three levels of terraces and pools, and beyond that the sea and surrounding nature
reserve. All the rooms face the water. Seen from the terraces, the hotel appeared to have a
honeycomb of white balconies.
In fact, it was Roman before it was Italian. When the Romans departed, it was populated by the
Slavs and in the middle ages taken over by the Venetians across the Adriatic; they ruled for 500
years. Other forces displaced them, then Italians governed again till World War II. Almost
everyone speaks Italian. Most street signs are in Croatian and Italian. (Istria is Italian; Istra is
Croation.) And there are astonishing Roman ruins and the very savory influence of Italian
cookery.
Monte Mulini
We were staying at Monte Mulini, about a 10-minute walk along the sea from the Old Town. It is
built where there once was a small mountain (monte) with a mill (mulino). Then in 2008, Maistra,
Istria's premier hotel company, created an elegant five-star boutique hotel, the only one in town.
Walking into the lobby, I was stunned by the view through the three-story high glass wall that
opens onto three levels of terraces and pools, and beyond that the sea and surrounding nature
reserve. All the rooms face the water. Seen from the terraces, the hotel appeared to have a
honeycomb of white balconies.
Our room was decorated with modern Croatian art. It
had a red chaise and on the balcony stylish black
raffia chairs and a coffee table. From there, I could see
a small park with silvery olive trees and beyond that a
few dozen boats in a protected cove, their masts
bereft of sails as they waited to be put to work.
In the morning, we had breakfast on another terrace
overlooking the bay. Croissant and cappuccino never
tasted so good. And then I had a facial in the spa, a
soothing multi-colored-lit hideaway to soothe the
spirit as well as the flesh! Just what I needed to feel
splendidly radiant for the rest of the day.
had a red chaise and on the balcony stylish black
raffia chairs and a coffee table. From there, I could see
a small park with silvery olive trees and beyond that a
few dozen boats in a protected cove, their masts
bereft of sails as they waited to be put to work.
In the morning, we had breakfast on another terrace
overlooking the bay. Croissant and cappuccino never
tasted so good. And then I had a facial in the spa, a
soothing multi-colored-lit hideaway to soothe the
spirit as well as the flesh! Just what I needed to feel
splendidly radiant for the rest of the day.
Rovinj is located just halfway along Istria's west coast. It's the perfect base from which to
explore the peninsula.
explore the peninsula.