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ISLAND MAGIC: Exploring B.C.’s Vancouver Island ~ Article by Margaret Deefholts, photos by Phyllis Beavan and Margaret Deefholts
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No matter how many times I’ve done it, I
always feel a tingle of anticipation as I
line up at the B.C. Ferries terminal in
Tsawwassen, south of Vancouver, B.C.
Today is no different, and yet in a sense
it is. This time I’m joined by my sister,
Phyllis (Beavan), and we are about to
launch on a six-day exploration of the
east coast of Vancouver Island and B.C.’s
Sunshine Coast using a B.C. Ferries’
CirclePac ticket. It isn’t often we can get
away on a sisterly trip together and both
of us 60+ year olds are looking forward
to the week ahead—one that we’ll add to
our scrapbook of shared, happy
memories.

The Queen of Alberni is one of B.C. Ferries’ smaller vessels with just one passenger deck
– but no less comfortable for all that. Deep seats, wide picture windows, a comfortable
and well appointed cafeteria, serving White Spot’s legendary burgers to Phyllis’s delight.
I venture up to the open sundeck—but nip back inside quickly; although it is spring, the
wind still carries winter on its breath.
Beyond our seats by a picture window,
mild sunshine sheens the waters to silver
and seagulls, hoping for scraps, swoop
and hover just beyond the deck. We glide
past the hulk of the Sunshine Coast
mountains to the east, and the snow
capped peaks along the spine of
Vancouver Island. Circling Gabriola Island
we dock at Nanaimo’s Duke Point Ferry
terminal and head south along the Island
Highway to Chemainus.

Chemainus has a unique claim to fame. Once the centre of a thriving lumber industry, it
fell on hard times when the Chemainus Mill closed in the ’70s, but now, dubbed as “The
Little Town That Did©”, it has transformed itself into a vast outdoor art gallery. Every
street brings a larger-than-life painting into view, each one commemorating the lives of
people who lived, worked, and raised their families in this small community: here are the
lumber barons, MacMillan and Humbird, and around the corner a Chinese bull gang hauls
timber to the waterfront in 1884. At a T junction, an entire wall has a panoramic painting
of a street scene, complete with a band and onlookers, capturing the festivities of the
50th anniversary of the Victoria Lumber & Manufacturing Company in 1939. The evening
light is gentle and bathes the painted memories of Chemainus in the soft glow of
nostalgia.