Peru: An Alternative Incan Adventure ~ Walking to the Sacred Machu
Picchu
Article by Alicia Harney
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OK, Machu Picchu... everyone knows of the famous Inca Trail, (and it’s associated $500 ticket)
and because of the price, loads of tour operators have popped up in Cuzco offering alternative
options for the budget traveler. But on a recent visit to Cuzco I found out that there is a cheaper
way to get to Peru’s most visited tourist site. Up to $480 cheaper! Just make your own way to
the town of Aguas Calientes.

When I first heard the tips on how to do it alone it sounded awfully complicated and a lot of work
to save a little money. But once I committed to do it, it was all worthwhile and actually quite
easy! I am travelling with my boyfriend and so just the two of us set off on our own Incan
Adventure!
First thing in the morning we got a taxi to a Quillabamba bus station in
Cuzco, it cost us 3 soles and shouldn't cost any more than that from most
areas around the main plaza. From here there are two bus services that go
to Santa Maria; Selva Sur and Turismo Ampay. We arrived just before 6:30
a.m. on the advice that there was a 7:00 a.m. bus. Unfortunately, in our
indecision about who to travel with we missed a bus at 6:30 a.m. Not to
worry, the next bus was at 7:30 a.m., we would be 30 minutes behind
schedule but not to worry. Only problem, the Selva Sur service didn't
actually leave until it was full, this was after 8:30 a.m. - over an hour and a
half later than we wanted. If you want to be sure of the bus departure
time, I would advise that you go to the bus station the day before and get
your ticket in advance. The journey took about 6 hours and was only 15
soles each.
budget travel in Peru
A tip: Go to the toilet before
you leave Cuzco the only
toilets on the way cost 30
centavos and are simply holes
in the ground. Vile!

From Santa Maria we took a
collectivo taxi to Santa Teresa.
This patch of road is where
most of the problems have
been in the past. The road is
deadly, only enough room for
one car at most points with a
shear drop down the cliff on
one side! Apparently we were
lucky to be able to take the
collective taxi all the way; we
met people that had to walk
most of it. I definitely would
not take a taxi if the weather
is bad. This sounds like bad
advise (bad weather is exactly
when you want a taxi) but if it
is raining the road turns into a
death. We paid 10 soles each
for this but heard reports of other people who got it a lot cheaper - especially
if you can find a Peruvian or Spanish speaker to take with you who will do the
haggling and get in a minibus rather than a four seater car!

From Santa Teresa there are two options: stay here overnight as most
people or keep going and try and make it all in one day! We were impatient
and went for the latter, but it meant we ran out of daylight.

Do not believe reports, or drivers who claim they will bring you directly to the
Hydroelectrico. The road to the Hydroelectrico is no longer functional as we
found out to our cost! Instead ask a local to drive you to the river and the zip
line (gondola), it should cost you 1 sole and is a regular run for the locals. It
will take maybe 20 minutes in the car.

The gondola is basically a tray with a small cage and they pull you over the
raging river far below. Not a trip for the faint hearted! It should have cost 1
sole each to cross the river, but again, we were ripped off and would not let
us cross for any less than 2 soles each - no matter how hard we bargained.

Once we crossed the river we stayed on the road used by the construction
workers in the hope that a construction vehicle would drive past and we
could hitch a lift. I think if you go on the pedestrian track you will be walking
through the jungle, which may also be a lot longer! It took us only 20 or 30
minutes to the control point, we seemed to bypass the Hydroelectrico!
Machu Picchu Peru
There was only one point that confused us a little; cross the rickety old