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DRINKING (TEA) WITH THE NATIVES ~ Skip Britain's stuffy hotel teas, and follow the people to the real thing Article by Elizabeth Valerio
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Women's Adventures, Vacations & Experiences ~ Your Journey Starts Here!
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Every London guidebook has a section devoted to
afternoon tea. The authors gush about the
pastries at Harrods, the finely-cut sandwiches at
the Brown Hotel, and the delicate scones served
with clotted cream at Kensington Gardens. Is this
what Londoners do in the afternoons? Sit, decked
out in Chanel, prim and proper, on satin
cushioned chairs, shelling out fifty bucks for a tier
of patisseries? Unfortunately, the hotel scene is
an overstuffed way of enjoying London's oldest
ritual. In short, it's a tourist trap.
The good news is that you can soak up the
deliciousness of teatime sans confining attire and
inflated prices. The English tea tradition is carried
on in quite a few restaurants and cafes. So, hang
up those heels and take a look at these
alternatives:
The Bramah Museum of Tea and Coffee
The Bramah Museum of Tea and Coffee, located just south of London Bridge, looks as if
a home for grandmothers exploded, and the remains were collected in this room. With
tea pots from every decade, pink and white lace linens, and cookbooks on display, it's
hard not to be reminded of old ladies playing cards.
Full tea is a mere nine pounds (about $17) and includes a choice of sandwiches (the
cucumber and cream cheese are yummy), plain scones with clotted cream and berry
preserves or fresh crumpets, and a large piece of cake. The staff will recommend a tea
to complement what you choose. It is second nature to coo at the bone china cup and
saucer, and fondle the three-tiered platter that the sandwiches are arranged on, out of
sheer love and appreciation.
The enthusiastic silver-haired pianist, Roger, greets arrivals by thrusting his laminated
café music request menu, with songs by Gershwin and Aretha Franklin and everyone in
between, politely demanding a selection. He's then move from table to table, blabbing
with guests until it becomes apparent that the room needs music to soothe it.
Roger has worked at the museum for over a year, and enjoys the variety of customers.
"We get some locals and a ton of tourists, what with The Globe and The Tate just
around the corner," he explains, referring to the Shakespeare theater and the famous
art museum.
The café produces over 20 blends of tea and coffee, all available at the gift shop, in
addition to books, coffee tins, pots, and cups. The piano is soothing and creates an
atmosphere suitable for reading and relaxing. The constant refilling of one's teapot
doesn't hurt, either.
Patisserie Valerie
Patisserie Valerie is almost too cute, with vintage movie posters plastered on the
walls and tiny white tables in clusters around the main floor. With six locations around
greater London, customers become loyal, and gladly shell out £15 ($28) for tea and
pastries. You'll nonetheless see starving artists and hungry students. The adorable
Victorian teapots are well worth the £4.
The Old Bank of England
In the heart of Fleet Street is The Old Bank of England, converted from bank to bar in
1995. Its beauty is far too great to treat it like just another pub. Its afternoon tea is a
little-known fact. Only a few couples were there the day we went, but after gazing up
at the high frescoed ceiling and tapestry-covered walls, we were sold.
High tea is served for about £16 ($30) and can be shared by two people. A typical tray
includes tea sandwiches with turkey and pesto mayonnaise paired with garlic hummus
and roasted sweet peppers; warm raisin scones with clotted cream and raspberry
preserves; and small chocolate pastries surrounded by fresh fruit, dusted with
powdered sugar. The tea comes in bags, but is nonetheless delightful when poured
from its own pewter pot.
After tea, reading in the tiny courtyard garden is a must, until the working locals are
set free at five and take over the well-stocked bar. The Bank provides delectable food
and a cool, quiet haven to while away an afternoon.
The Kandy Tea Room
Just west of Kensington Gardens, The Kandy Tea Room offers a Sri Lankan twist on tea,
specializing in Ceylon teas and delicious quiche. Cream tea is served with scones and a
personal pot of piping hot tea for £7 ($13) a person. But we found the cakes in the
window too enticing to pass up. A pot of tea and a slice of cake is just £5. Teacups
hang on shelves mounted on flowered wallpaper, giving this intimate tea room a
homey feel.
Where Real Londoners Take Tea
Bramah Museum of Tea and Coffee
40 Southwark Street
London, SE1 1UN
44-20-7403-5650
http://www.bramahmuseum.co.uk/index.html
The Kandy Tea Room
4 Holland Street
Kensington, London W8 4LT
44-20-7730-1234
Old Bank of England
194 Fleet Street
Holborn, London, EC4A 2LT
44-20-6430-2255
Patisserie Valerie
44 Old Compton Street
Soho, London W1D 5JX
44-20-7437-3466
Photo by: Michelle del Rio
Tea for (at least) Two: Traditional tea includes a spread of sandwiches, scones and cake.
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Elizabeth Valerio hails from New England and is a recent graduate of New York