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Croatia: Medieval Dubrovnik – a living museum of the near and distant past
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
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We were visiting the 14th-century Franciscan Monastery when our guide Maja Milović turned to a
corner that seemed out of place in the beautiful Gothic-Romanesque stone building. A small table
displayed what appeared to be used ordinance. On the wall, a plaque said: "A missile shot, 6th
December 1991." In 1991 and 92, more than 2,000 Serb bombs and missiles bombarded
Dubrovnik. The monuments were targeted.

Dubrovnik is a living museum, with an Old Town of pale limestone buildings and narrow streets
surrounded by medieval fortress walls. But the history is not only of a millennium past. When
you walk along the cobbled streets of the old city, you are reminded of what happened to this
extraordinary place in the 1990s when war engulfed the Balkans. Parts were destroyed by
Serbian bombs, and you can still see the bullet holes in old buildings. Our passionate guide,
Maja, made it clear that the city will never forget.
Fortunately, there's been a brilliant restoration. The structures of the Old Town, a magnet for
visitors, go back as much as a thousand years and tell the history of Byzantine, Venetian, and
independent rule. The evening we arrived, we visited the 15th-century Rector's Palace. The
Rector was the head of government selected every month by the nobles of the Republic of
Ragusa. We found ourselves in the atrium, a space enclosed by white stone walls with high
archways and a stone stair case leading to a colonnaded upper floor. Upstairs over the door to
the Palace of the Great Council, there is an inscription in Latin: "Obliti privatorium publica
curate," or "Forget personal, worry about public matters." A good message to put on our own
legislative halls!

There we heard a charming chamber music concert featuring modern sounds created by
Croatian composer, Srećko Bradić, as the Cantus Ensemble presented the first performance of
his flute concerto. They also played pieces by Hindemith and Debussy. The concert was part of
the annual summer festival that runs in July and August and is held in this and other historic
buildings.
Afterwards, we wandered about the Old Town and stopped for a drink at a small square next to
the Cathedral. It was filled with tables set up for visitors to enjoy casual drinks and jazz. A
crooner channeled Sinatra, backed up by piano, bass and drums. A lady belted out jazz classics.
We bought a CD (Nick Bresco, "Tribute to Frank Sinatra") and then headed back to our hotel, a
10-minute walk along the road fronting the sea.

We were staying at the Excelsior, a gorgeous five-star white limestone hotel decorated in soft
colors of brown and beige set off by green plants. The interior designer was Renata Štrok, who
mixed 1930s and 1950s styles and chose art work by important Croatian painters. Our room was
a suite; on the balcony that edged both rooms were beige raffia chaises and chairs with white
cushions.
From the balcony and through the windows – even
the large windows in the bathroom – we could see
the pale ochre and red roofs of the old city and its
reflection on the glistening waters as if it were a
mirage. Directly out the window I saw a dozen
colorful red, green and yellow double kayaks that
had set out from town to explore the coast.
In the morning, breakfast was on a balcony
set up with brown straw chairs, and, again the
stunning view of the old city -- the ramparts,
the harbor, the red roofs and castle turrets,
the blue sea. (The breakfast room turned into
a main restaurant for lunch and dinner.) Sitting
there made us hungry to go back to the old
city. It was an easy walk.