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| ANCHORED IN HISTORY ~ A DANUBE RIVER CRUISE Article by Vivienne Chapleo Photos by Jill Hoelting Continued below... |
| WAVE Journey.com Women's Adventures, Vacations & Experiences ~ Your Journey Starts Here! |
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| WAVE Journey.com Women's Adventures, Vacations & Experiences ~ Your Journey Starts Here! |
Who exactly was it that came up with the term "Blue Danube"? Well, if memory (could be in
trouble now) and research are my guides (best bet), I'm guessing it had something to do with
that Austrian fellow, Johann Strauss II.
trouble now) and research are my guides (best bet), I'm guessing it had something to do with
that Austrian fellow, Johann Strauss II.
"An der schönen blauen Donau" is the title of the waltz
composed in 1867 by Strauss, commonly known in
English as "On the Beautiful Blue Danube". From my
recent adventure on the Danube (known in German as
the Donau); I would agree with Johann that the
Danube is beautiful... but blue? More brown, like a
mud-puddle, if you ask me.
composed in 1867 by Strauss, commonly known in
English as "On the Beautiful Blue Danube". From my
recent adventure on the Danube (known in German as
the Donau); I would agree with Johann that the
Danube is beautiful... but blue? More brown, like a
mud-puddle, if you ask me.
Anyway, that's all beside the point really, as my eight-day Romantic Danube cruise with Viking
River Cruises, aboard the Viking Europe, from Nuremberg, Germany (Nurnberg in German) to
Budapest, Hungary, turned out to be one of the most scenic and historically fulfilling trips I've
taken.
River Cruises, aboard the Viking Europe, from Nuremberg, Germany (Nurnberg in German) to
Budapest, Hungary, turned out to be one of the most scenic and historically fulfilling trips I've
taken.
If you haven’t taken a Danube river cruise, some of the
reasons to consider this trip are: small, three-deck
ships designed for the rivers they are sailing (approx.
150 passenger capacity); unpack once (added bonus:
all cabins have a window of some kind); no seat
assignments and only one restaurant for meals (I relish
being able to chose my own dining companions at each
meal); planned daily activities (most shore excursions
are included in the price); sailing through the
spectacular scenery of Germany, Austria, Slovakia and
Hungary.
reasons to consider this trip are: small, three-deck
ships designed for the rivers they are sailing (approx.
150 passenger capacity); unpack once (added bonus:
all cabins have a window of some kind); no seat
assignments and only one restaurant for meals (I relish
being able to chose my own dining companions at each
meal); planned daily activities (most shore excursions
are included in the price); sailing through the
spectacular scenery of Germany, Austria, Slovakia and
Hungary.
Cruising the Danube (second longest river in Europe at 1770 miles/2850 km), which rises in
Germany's Black Forest and flows into the Black Sea, turns out to be one of the most relaxing
ways to get up close and personal with the history of Europe’s charming towns and quaint
villages.
Germany's Black Forest and flows into the Black Sea, turns out to be one of the most relaxing
ways to get up close and personal with the history of Europe’s charming towns and quaint
villages.
Although the occasional large city is thrown into the mix
of ports-of-call (who doesn't want to visit Vienna at least
once anyway?), sightseeing excursions of the charming
towns of Kelheim, Regensburg (with an included
excursion to Weltenburg Abbey), Passau and Melk (with
its Benedictine Abbey), keep passengers busy and
entertained.
of ports-of-call (who doesn't want to visit Vienna at least
once anyway?), sightseeing excursions of the charming
towns of Kelheim, Regensburg (with an included
excursion to Weltenburg Abbey), Passau and Melk (with
its Benedictine Abbey), keep passengers busy and
entertained.
Boarding the Viking Europe in historic Nuremberg (second-largest city in Bavaria) for the cruise
along the Danube, passengers from the United States, Australia, Canada and Great Britain, met
for a week of sightseeing and relaxation.
along the Danube, passengers from the United States, Australia, Canada and Great Britain, met
for a week of sightseeing and relaxation.
Our second day offered a four-hour sightseeing bus and walking-tour of Nuremberg. English
speaking guides easily grabbed and held our attention as they led us onto the Zeppelin
grounds where Hitler held his Nazi party rallies; stood with us outside the Palace of Justice
(the historic home to the Nuremberg Trials) and pointed out the exact windows of the building
where the trials took place; walked with us from the castle to the Old Town, whilst explaining
that Emperor Heinrich III founded the city in the 11th century as a base for his campaigns in
Bohemia; then allowed us plenty of free time for browsing and shopping at the market in the
Main Market Square.
speaking guides easily grabbed and held our attention as they led us onto the Zeppelin
grounds where Hitler held his Nazi party rallies; stood with us outside the Palace of Justice
(the historic home to the Nuremberg Trials) and pointed out the exact windows of the building
where the trials took place; walked with us from the castle to the Old Town, whilst explaining
that Emperor Heinrich III founded the city in the 11th century as a base for his campaigns in
Bohemia; then allowed us plenty of free time for browsing and shopping at the market in the
Main Market Square.
Returning to the ship, we headed for lunch while the Captain and crew prepared for departure.
Anchors aweigh and the Viking Europe set sail along the Main-Danube Canal, destination
Kelheim, situated at the confluence of the rivers Altmuhl and Danube.
Anchors aweigh and the Viking Europe set sail along the Main-Danube Canal, destination
Kelheim, situated at the confluence of the rivers Altmuhl and Danube.
On board lectures focusing on the European Union and Main-Danube Canal, enlightened
passengers who chose to attend the afternoon and evening presentations, while live music
and dancing in the lounge finished off the night.
passengers who chose to attend the afternoon and evening presentations, while live music
and dancing in the lounge finished off the night.
Day three saw an early morning docking in Kelheim. It had snowed quite heavily the night
before (not typical for the end of March), but provided for a very picturesque landscape.
Although I had hoped for spring weather conditions, the falling snow brought about the
romance of the Danube and nearby villages.
before (not typical for the end of March), but provided for a very picturesque landscape.
Although I had hoped for spring weather conditions, the falling snow brought about the
romance of the Danube and nearby villages.
Off the ship and onto tour buses, we were
whisked away to board a small river boat, to cruise
where the river Danube has carved through the
hard limestone rock of the Swabian Alb (to create
the stunning Danube Gorge) and pay a visit to the
baroque abbey at Weltenburg (the world's oldest
monastery brewery - since 1050). After a tour of
the Abbey and history lecture given by our guide, it
was time to taste the famous Weltenburger
Kloster Barock Dunkel, which received the 2004
World Beer Award for best Dunkel beer (dark ale)
in the world. After our four-hour excursion, we
re-joined the Viking Europe, which had sailed on to
Regensburg.
whisked away to board a small river boat, to cruise
where the river Danube has carved through the
hard limestone rock of the Swabian Alb (to create
the stunning Danube Gorge) and pay a visit to the
baroque abbey at Weltenburg (the world's oldest
monastery brewery - since 1050). After a tour of
the Abbey and history lecture given by our guide, it
was time to taste the famous Weltenburger
Kloster Barock Dunkel, which received the 2004
World Beer Award for best Dunkel beer (dark ale)
in the world. After our four-hour excursion, we
re-joined the Viking Europe, which had sailed on to
Regensburg.
An afternoon guided walking tour of the large,
medieval center of Regensburg (a Unesco
Heritage Site which dates back to the Stone Age
and is located at the confluence of the Regen
and Danube rivers), was both gratifying and
informative. The city teems with history and
architecture, such as: the Gothic Dom
(Cathedral) founded in 1275; the medieval
Stone Bridge (constructed from 1135-1146)
used by the knights of the 2nd and 3rd crusade
to cross the Danube on their way to the Holy
Land; the Town Hall dating from the 14th
century and containing the rooms occupied by
the Imperial diet (in German also known as
Reichstag or parliament) from 1663 to 1806.
medieval center of Regensburg (a Unesco
Heritage Site which dates back to the Stone Age
and is located at the confluence of the Regen
and Danube rivers), was both gratifying and
informative. The city teems with history and
architecture, such as: the Gothic Dom
(Cathedral) founded in 1275; the medieval
Stone Bridge (constructed from 1135-1146)
used by the knights of the 2nd and 3rd crusade
to cross the Danube on their way to the Holy
Land; the Town Hall dating from the 14th
century and containing the rooms occupied by
the Imperial diet (in German also known as
Reichstag or parliament) from 1663 to 1806.
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Docking early the next morning, we arrived in
Passau, with its baroque and gothic architecture.
Known as the Dreiflüssestadt (City of Three Rivers),
Passau was our last port of call in Germany before
the Danube flowed into Austria. A full day in port
proved ample to explore this city where the
Danube, Ilz and Inn rivers meet.
Passau, with its baroque and gothic architecture.
Known as the Dreiflüssestadt (City of Three Rivers),
Passau was our last port of call in Germany before
the Danube flowed into Austria. A full day in port
proved ample to explore this city where the
Danube, Ilz and Inn rivers meet.
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As the ship remained docked in Regensburg
until late evening, there was ample time to
continue exploring, find a local restaurant
for dinner to savor the local specialties, or
stay onboard for dinner and Bavarian
folklore entertainment.
until late evening, there was ample time to
continue exploring, find a local restaurant
for dinner to savor the local specialties, or
stay onboard for dinner and Bavarian
folklore entertainment.
Continued below...
Continued below...
| WAVE Journey.com Women's Adventures, Vacations & Experiences ~ Your Journey Starts Here! |
| WAVE Journey.com Women's Adventures, Vacations & Experiences ~ Your Journey Starts Here! |
Our guided walking tour of the Old City (with
seven-thousand years of history) and St.
Stephen's Cathedral (the organ is the second
largest in the world with 17,774 pipes), concluded
with a visit to the Glass Museum (the world's
largest museum of Bohemian glass, with 30,000
pieces dating from 1700-1950). Our guide, Ingrid,
advised passengers in her group where to enjoy
the finest cakes and coffee, which sausage to try
and most importantly, where to find the best
Apfelstrudel in town.
seven-thousand years of history) and St.
Stephen's Cathedral (the organ is the second
largest in the world with 17,774 pipes), concluded
with a visit to the Glass Museum (the world's
largest museum of Bohemian glass, with 30,000
pieces dating from 1700-1950). Our guide, Ingrid,
advised passengers in her group where to enjoy
the finest cakes and coffee, which sausage to try
and most importantly, where to find the best
Apfelstrudel in town.
By evening the ship was sailing onwards
to the little town of Melk, an important
spiritual and cultural centre in Austria for
over 1000 years, but probably best
known for the massive baroque
Benedictine monastery called Stift Melk.
to the little town of Melk, an important
spiritual and cultural centre in Austria for
over 1000 years, but probably best
known for the massive baroque
Benedictine monastery called Stift Melk.
A guided tour on day five of Melk Abbey (home
to a school since the 12th century and home to
an extensive medieval manuscript collection),
provided splendid views of the Wachau valley
and river Danube. A short, down-hill walk from
the abbey and the Hauptplatz (town square)
and Hauptstrasse (main street), with buildings
from the middle ages, were reached. Here it
was possible to tempt the taste buds with
Austrian delicacies (chocolates with apricot,
cakes, pastries) or spend time shopping for the
perfect souvenir.
to a school since the 12th century and home to
an extensive medieval manuscript collection),
provided splendid views of the Wachau valley
and river Danube. A short, down-hill walk from
the abbey and the Hauptplatz (town square)
and Hauptstrasse (main street), with buildings
from the middle ages, were reached. Here it
was possible to tempt the taste buds with
Austrian delicacies (chocolates with apricot,
cakes, pastries) or spend time shopping for the
perfect souvenir.
Arriving back on board for lunch, the ship set sail on her six-hour voyage to Vienna (in German,
Wien). An overnight docking in Austria's capital city saw some passengers heading into the
city to dine and explore Vienna on their own.
Wien). An overnight docking in Austria's capital city saw some passengers heading into the
city to dine and explore Vienna on their own.
Opting to attend a Mozart and Strauss
concert (typically aimed at tourists), I
was entertained with singing, dancing
and music for ninety-minutes in the
300 seat concert hall at the Palais
Auersperg. The thirty-minute bus drive
to and from the hall was magical...
somebody had flipped the light switch
on and Vienna's famous buildings
looked glorious in their illumination.
(Optional concert - price: Euro 53)
concert (typically aimed at tourists), I
was entertained with singing, dancing
and music for ninety-minutes in the
300 seat concert hall at the Palais
Auersperg. The thirty-minute bus drive
to and from the hall was magical...
somebody had flipped the light switch
on and Vienna's famous buildings
looked glorious in their illumination.
(Optional concert - price: Euro 53)
Morning of day six started with a half-day
bus tour of Vienna, stopping to visit the
Belvedere Palace (view The Kiss by Gustav
Klimt) and ending at the gothic and
Romanesque, St. Stephen's Cathedral
(Stephansdom). Vienna has so many
famous sights, such as the Opera House,
Stadtpark, Hofburg Theatre and
Ringstrasse; expect your head to be on a
swivel during a bus tour.
bus tour of Vienna, stopping to visit the
Belvedere Palace (view The Kiss by Gustav
Klimt) and ending at the gothic and
Romanesque, St. Stephen's Cathedral
(Stephansdom). Vienna has so many
famous sights, such as the Opera House,
Stadtpark, Hofburg Theatre and
Ringstrasse; expect your head to be on a
swivel during a bus tour.
Deciding to stay in the city after the tour
ended, I discovered Restaurant Ferdinandt,
near the shopping area of the Kartnerstrasse
(main pedestrian zone in Vienna lined with
shops and restaurants) and Stephansplatz
(a square at the geographical centre of the
city) to have lunch and sample the
Ottakringer beer from Vienna's only brewery.
ended, I discovered Restaurant Ferdinandt,
near the shopping area of the Kartnerstrasse
(main pedestrian zone in Vienna lined with
shops and restaurants) and Stephansplatz
(a square at the geographical centre of the
city) to have lunch and sample the
Ottakringer beer from Vienna's only brewery.
After lunch, it was time to do what the
locals do... find a coffee shop and eat
cake. The Kurkonditorei Oberlaa
turned out to be a perfect place to
indulge in the famous Sacher Torte (a
dry chocolate cake with apricot jam)
and Viennese coffee (forget Starbucks,
Vienna is where the coffee shop
began). Although I did not try the
original Sacher Torte from the Sacher
Hotel, my choice was most delicious.
locals do... find a coffee shop and eat
cake. The Kurkonditorei Oberlaa
turned out to be a perfect place to
indulge in the famous Sacher Torte (a
dry chocolate cake with apricot jam)
and Viennese coffee (forget Starbucks,
Vienna is where the coffee shop
began). Although I did not try the
original Sacher Torte from the Sacher
Hotel, my choice was most delicious.
Leaving Vienna on our final evening of
cruising, the scenery was
breathtaking. The ship cruised
between the foothills of the
Carpathians (largest mountain range
in Europe), past Bratislava (an
amazing sight at night), capital of
Slovakia and onward to Budapest,
capital of Hungary.
cruising, the scenery was
breathtaking. The ship cruised
between the foothills of the
Carpathians (largest mountain range
in Europe), past Bratislava (an
amazing sight at night), capital of
Slovakia and onward to Budapest,
capital of Hungary.
Early morning came quickly on day seven and most
passengers headed up to the sundeck, not wanting to miss
the approach into Budapest, Queen of the Danube. After
breakfast a three-hour city sightseeing excursion (clarifying
the unification of the right-bank (west) Buda, Obuda (Old
Buda) and the left-bank (east) Pest), toured the main
landmarks and attractions: the neo-Gothic Hungarian
Parliament building; Szechenyi Chain Bridge; Matthias Church;
Margaret Island; Castle Hill, Fisherman's Bastion and the
Castle District; Esztergom Basilica; Heroes' Square.
passengers headed up to the sundeck, not wanting to miss
the approach into Budapest, Queen of the Danube. After
breakfast a three-hour city sightseeing excursion (clarifying
the unification of the right-bank (west) Buda, Obuda (Old
Buda) and the left-bank (east) Pest), toured the main
landmarks and attractions: the neo-Gothic Hungarian
Parliament building; Szechenyi Chain Bridge; Matthias Church;
Margaret Island; Castle Hill, Fisherman's Bastion and the
Castle District; Esztergom Basilica; Heroes' Square.
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| WAVE Journey.com Women's Adventures, Vacations & Experiences ~ Your Journey Starts Here! |
Bio: Vivienne Chapleo is the Co-Founder of WAVEJourney.com.
The restaurant offers many regional
specialties, of which I highly
recommend the Karntner Kasnudein, a
regional dish of dumplings stuffed with
cheese and spinach, with a brown
butter and fresh sage sauce... to die
for and only Euro 14.90.
specialties, of which I highly
recommend the Karntner Kasnudein, a
regional dish of dumplings stuffed with
cheese and spinach, with a brown
butter and fresh sage sauce... to die
for and only Euro 14.90.
For those who wanted more of the city and her sights, the afternoon was free to explore
as you wished, allowing plenty of time to shop on the famous Vaci Utca with all its fashion
boutiques, cafes and expensive restaurants (main shopping street catering to tourists),
or scour the Great Market Hall (Budapest's largest indoor market) for popular souvenirs of
paprika, tablecloths, dolls, glasses and clothing.
as you wished, allowing plenty of time to shop on the famous Vaci Utca with all its fashion
boutiques, cafes and expensive restaurants (main shopping street catering to tourists),
or scour the Great Market Hall (Budapest's largest indoor market) for popular souvenirs of
paprika, tablecloths, dolls, glasses and clothing.
| Continued below... |
With the opportunity to spend the last evening of
the cruise in port, it is a great excuse to savor the
local cuisine (goulash being a favorite of mine) at a
nearby restaurant. Along Vaci Utca the choices are
endless, but a couple of recommendations are:
Fatal Restaurant, serving authentic Hungarian
food in a Hungarian-countryside atmosphere
(popular with locals); Bangkok Thai Restaurant
serves very good Thai food at reasonable prices.
the cruise in port, it is a great excuse to savor the
local cuisine (goulash being a favorite of mine) at a
nearby restaurant. Along Vaci Utca the choices are
endless, but a couple of recommendations are:
Fatal Restaurant, serving authentic Hungarian
food in a Hungarian-countryside atmosphere
(popular with locals); Bangkok Thai Restaurant
serves very good Thai food at reasonable prices.
The final morning was relaxed and calm, with
disembarkation only taking a few minutes.
Saying good-bye to new-found friends and
making plans to meet again took much longer.
The small ship experience and sailing the
Romantic Danube brought with it priceless
memories to last a lifetime.
disembarkation only taking a few minutes.
Saying good-bye to new-found friends and
making plans to meet again took much longer.
The small ship experience and sailing the
Romantic Danube brought with it priceless
memories to last a lifetime.
Side Notes:
The following river cruise companies cater to English-speaking passengers:
Viking River Cruises - offers cruises to Europe, China, Russia and Ukraine.
Enquiries: 1-800-304-9616
www.vikingrivercruises.com
AMA Waterways (Amadeus Waterways) - offers five-star cruises along European and Russian rivers.
Enquiries: 1-800-626-0126
www.amawaterways.com
Uniworld River Cruises - offers cruises to Europe, Egypt, Russia and China.
Enquiries: 1-800-733-7820
www.uniworld.com
Recommended Dining:
The Restaurant Ferdinandt in Vienna, Austria has a wonderful lunch menu with delicious options
that are reasonably priced. Recommend the Karntner Kasnudein, a regional dish of dumplings
stuffed with cheese and spinach, with a brown butter and fresh sage sauce - E14.90. Chase it
down with a local beer: Zwickl beer - 0.5 liter = E3.60; Ottakringer beer - 0.5 liter = E3.20. Great
location near Stephensplatz and St. Stephen's Cathedral.
Address: Wiener Restaurant Ferdinandt Zwickl-Bar, Neuer Markt 2, A-1010 Wien, Austria. Tel:
01/5138991 Open: 9AM to midnight. Outdoor seating available. Accepts Credit cards, debit cards
and cash. Note: Prices include taxes.
Kurkonditorei Oberlaa - (in Vienna) for coffee, dessert, lunch. Enjoy a slice of the famous Sacher
Torte - E3.35, and a Viennese coffee - Oberlaa Mélange = E3.30. If you sit outside expect to pay
the "Schlagobers Port" or waiter service charge = E0.90.
Address: Kurkonditorei Oberlaa Wien, 1010 Wien, Neuer Markt 16. Tel: 01/5132936-0 Email:
Stadthaus@Oberlaa-Wien.at
www.oberlaa-wien.at
Fatal Restaurant - Authentic Hungarian food. Only cash in Hungarian Forint.
Address: 1056 Budapest, Vaci u. 67. Tel: +361 2662 607.
www.fatalrestaurant.com
Bangkok Thai Restaurant - serves very good Thai food at reasonable prices. Excellent green curry
and pad Thai.
Address: 1056 Budapest, So utca 3. Tel: 266-0584. (close to Main Market Hall)
Recommended lodging in Budapest:
Boutique Hotel Zara
H-1056 Budapest, Só u. 6.
Phone: +36 1 357 6170
Fax: +36 1 357 6171
info@zarahotels.com
www.zarahotels.com
The following river cruise companies cater to English-speaking passengers:
Viking River Cruises - offers cruises to Europe, China, Russia and Ukraine.
Enquiries: 1-800-304-9616
www.vikingrivercruises.com
AMA Waterways (Amadeus Waterways) - offers five-star cruises along European and Russian rivers.
Enquiries: 1-800-626-0126
www.amawaterways.com
Uniworld River Cruises - offers cruises to Europe, Egypt, Russia and China.
Enquiries: 1-800-733-7820
www.uniworld.com
Recommended Dining:
The Restaurant Ferdinandt in Vienna, Austria has a wonderful lunch menu with delicious options
that are reasonably priced. Recommend the Karntner Kasnudein, a regional dish of dumplings
stuffed with cheese and spinach, with a brown butter and fresh sage sauce - E14.90. Chase it
down with a local beer: Zwickl beer - 0.5 liter = E3.60; Ottakringer beer - 0.5 liter = E3.20. Great
location near Stephensplatz and St. Stephen's Cathedral.
Address: Wiener Restaurant Ferdinandt Zwickl-Bar, Neuer Markt 2, A-1010 Wien, Austria. Tel:
01/5138991 Open: 9AM to midnight. Outdoor seating available. Accepts Credit cards, debit cards
and cash. Note: Prices include taxes.
Kurkonditorei Oberlaa - (in Vienna) for coffee, dessert, lunch. Enjoy a slice of the famous Sacher
Torte - E3.35, and a Viennese coffee - Oberlaa Mélange = E3.30. If you sit outside expect to pay
the "Schlagobers Port" or waiter service charge = E0.90.
Address: Kurkonditorei Oberlaa Wien, 1010 Wien, Neuer Markt 16. Tel: 01/5132936-0 Email:
Stadthaus@Oberlaa-Wien.at
www.oberlaa-wien.at
Fatal Restaurant - Authentic Hungarian food. Only cash in Hungarian Forint.
Address: 1056 Budapest, Vaci u. 67. Tel: +361 2662 607.
www.fatalrestaurant.com
Bangkok Thai Restaurant - serves very good Thai food at reasonable prices. Excellent green curry
and pad Thai.
Address: 1056 Budapest, So utca 3. Tel: 266-0584. (close to Main Market Hall)
Recommended lodging in Budapest:
Boutique Hotel Zara
H-1056 Budapest, Só u. 6.
Phone: +36 1 357 6170
Fax: +36 1 357 6171
info@zarahotels.com
www.zarahotels.com