Spain: The Costa Brava is a Fabulous Place for Art, Medieval Architecture,
Beaches & Cuisine.
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
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Stunning art, medieval towns, beaches, elegant food -- the Costa Brava (it means the "wild coast") in
Catalonia in the northeast of Spain is well-known by Europeans but not as much by Americans. It should be.
Just a few days gave us a glimpse of a world-class place to visit.
In Figueres, in the north of the Costa Brava, we found the incredible Salvador Dalí museum which the master
painter organized himself in the city where he was born and lived. It is in a theater that was destroyed at the
end of the Civil War. Dalí noted that the site was appropriate, "because I am an eminently theatrical painter."
He lived from 1904 to 1989, and though most people know him for the bended watch style of his surrealist
works, he created in many styles, and they are presented here. You can see enormous cleverness as well as
a bit of sentimentality and also theatrical exaggeration.
Among my favorite works were the
"Rainy Taxi" and "Mae West." In the
first, a male figure inside a real black
car is "watered," along with a
seat-full of green plants, by
"rain"that falls from the car roof
every time someone puts a Euro in
a slot. Sometimes it's called the
"Rainy Cadillac," because it was in
fact Dalí's Cadillac. Or at least the
fourth reproduction. He once wrote
that one of his cars had belonged to
President Roosevelt, another to
Clark Gable, and that he gave one
to his wife, Gala. The others were
shown at the surrealist exhibition in
Paris, the World Exhibition in New York, and the surrealist retrospective at the Museum of Modern Art in New
York.
How about this for deconstructing a
face? Huge sculpted representations
of Mae West's hair, eyes
(photographs), nose(a double
fireplace) and lips (a sofa) are
placed on a floor. The artifacts, with
gold curtains for hair, take on the
guise of a real face from a viewing
platform. The work was created
especially for the museum which Dalí
designed to give visitors a complete
aesthetic experience through entry
into the artist's world.
Dalí was madly in love with his wife,
Gala, and she appears in a number
of his works. He got himself into one,
too. Hereare "Gala's Foot,
Stereoscopic Painting," (1969) --the
image changes depending on where
you stand -- and "Portrait of Gala
Laughing" (1975-6).
Dalí had a delicious sense of humor as seen
in his "Self Portrait with Grilled Bacon"
(1941) and a sculpture of a skull, bones and
drawers in the courtyard of the "Rainy Taxi."
As Dalí is one of the world's most important
artists, this museum is quite remarkable.
The building is the best repository of his
work, deservedly the most visited museum
in Spain after the Prado. It was the most
memorable place we visited in the Costa
Brava.

From the museum, it was a 45-
minute drive to Cadaqués on the
coast, with winding roads taking
us past white-washed red-tiled
houses to the beach and harbor.
Restaurants don’t open till 1pm
because wait staffs are still
eating and European dining
hours are later than America's,
but at "EsBaluard," overlooking
sea, the maitre d' let us choose
one of the two window tables.
We sat there watching people
walk by below and listening to
the wash of waves on the shore.
From the window, I snapped a
photo of the beach and small
boats. Then it was serving time.
After another good fish lunch, we
wandered through the narrow
streets of the old town, stopping
at an old church and a local
museum.