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Chinese Fusion, New York Style ~
Where to find pastrami egg rolls, sushi with cream cheese and the Korean lonely
hearts all-night noodle special
Article by Debbie Lee





































































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New Yorkers with a hankering for Chinese
food expect more than egg drop soup and
chicken chow mein. Whether in a
fluorescent-lit takeout joint or a
white-tablecloth restaurant, Chinese cuisine
can be influenced by Latin America, India,
Israel and other unexpected places.
Jennifer 8. Lee, author of The Fortune Cookie
Chronicles: Adventures in the World of Chinese Food, explains that hyphenated food,
such as Chinese-Peruvian or Chinese-Indian, only seems bizarre. Chinese cuisine is in
fact the most pervasive and adaptable food in the world.

“You can get Chinese food on all seven continents,” Lee said. “In Antarctica, every
Monday at McMurdo Station is Chinese food night. In France, it’s salt-and-pepper frog
legs. In Louisiana, it’s Szechuan alligator.”

And in New York, it’s pastrami egg rolls. Plus Chinese hot dogs, Chinese chicken
lollipops and a Chinese-Korean noodle dish for lonely hearts. These three midtown
Manhattan restaurants, within walking distance of one another, offer an unusual taste
of New York’s Chinese melting pot.
Eden Wok

Eden Wok is a glatt kosher American-Chinese and sushi restaurant. Six Chinese cooks
slice, dice and sautée in an open kitchen, as Orthodox Rabbi Tzvi Margo watches
carefully.

A full-time employee of the restaurant, Rabbi Margo, dressed in a T-shirt and apron, is
always on call to light burners, inspect vegetables, and make sure the oyster sauce
doesn’t find its way into the stir-fries.

The restrictions of keeping kosher have led to inventions anyone might appreciate.
Fusing the tradition of Jewish deli with classic American-Chinese takeout is the Eden
Wok Chinese hot dog. A kosher beef frank is encased in an egg roll wrapper and deep-
fried. Greaseless with a golden, blistered skin, it’s served with a couple of packets of
ketchup and duck sauce for dipping.

From the Japanese sushi bar, there’s a New York-centric roll made with smoked salmon
and cream cheese (non-dairy, of course).
Indo Munch

Three blocks south is the Indian neighborhood nicknamed Curry Hill. When you start
seeing exotic spices, women in saris and Bollywood DVDs on the shelves of the little
shops, you’re there. (Other people call this area Murray Hill.) The new Indo Munch
offers a genuine taste of India – in the form of Szechuan lamb and chop suey.