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Cancún Water Adventures:
Swimming with the Whale Sharks and More
Article & photos by Lucy Komisar
Swimming alongside me was a
monstrous 25-foot fish, rotund, gray
and spotted with white circles. The
front fin protruded above the water,
the gills puffed slowly, and when it
finally passed me, I would see the tail
fins flapping. It was a whale shark, the
largest fish in the world. (Whales are
mammals and don't count as fish.) We
were in the Mexican Caribbean, just
Cancun swimming with whale sharks
north of Cancún. Swimming with the whale sharks has become a not-to-be-missed
activity here since the giant fish showed up in these waters 7 years ago.

The excitement had been palpable when we spotted the fish’s fins in the water, and
Gabriel the captain headed the small motorized canopied boat to a strategic position
ahead of it. Our guide Laura and the first two snorkelers slipped into the water so
they'd be near the whale shark's head. That way they could swim alongside it or let it
pass and see the full expanse and size of its body. The whale shark can grow up to 40
feet in length and can weigh up to 15 tons. The fins and the broad mouth remind you of
a shark, the size and shape makes you think of a whale.
The huge fish seemed uninterested in our
presence – neither skittish nor hostile.
When its large mouth opened to take in
the plankton on which it feeds, small
Remora fish swam around to catch the
fallout. They also clean the whale sharks. I
was happy to notice that its mouth had no
jagged teeth. But whale sharks don’t go
after prey. They suck in water, trap
whatever food floats through, and then
expel the water through their gills.
Cancun whale shark
After about 10 or 15 minutes, one group of
snorkelers returned and another pair took
their place. Occasionally, the fish would dive
to the bottom, and we would lose it. But
then one of us on board would spot
another. And if the snorkelers were still in
the water, Captain Gabriel would shout in
Spanish, "Laura, ahead of you. Laura, just
behind you." And the swimmers would make
for the spot and swim along in tandem. Or if
the fish was too far away, they would climb
Cancun snorkler with whale shark
back on the boat, and we'd move through the water slowly, looking for tell-tale fins.

The sea is 30 feet deep where we were, but there was no need for diving. Whale
sharks come to the surface to eat plankton in the morning. Then in the afternoon, they
dive and stay below.

About 30 whale sharks spend June to August or September in this part of the sea
between Contoy and Holbox Islands, just north of Cancún. In the distance, we could
see the lighthouse on Contoy.

In the fall, the whale sharks head past Belize to warmer winter water. One of the fish I
saw had been tagged by biologists, and the circles on the skin are like fingerprints,
different in each fish. But nobody really knows where they go when they leave Belize.
The fish are found in waters off Northern California, Honduras, the Galapagos Islands,
South Africa, Madagascar, Tanzania, the Red Sea, Thailand, the Maldives, the
Philippines, and Western Australia. But while divers in other regions sometimes wait
days to spot one, we seemed to be in the middle of a school of them.  
Four other small boats bobbed in the
water within eyesight, and one of our
friendly neighbors made broad pointing
gestures to show us where a whale shark
was lurking.

We had left at 7:15am to catch the whale
sharks feeding on the surface. We'd be
back about five hours later, after our own
on-board meal of a savory Mexican
shredded beef sandwich and soft drinks.
Cancun whale shark tour boat