International Literary Party in Paraty  ~
Article by Gisele Ribeiro
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Trafalgar Tours
A paradise that seems frozen in the XVIII century is located right in the middle of Rio de Janeiro
and São Paulo, Brazil. Paraty offers a real time traveling experience while walking on its
irregular cobblestones streets. They were built inclined on both sides, allowing the water to
flow into the sea. During high tide, the city is invaded by water, which goes back to the sea
when the tide is low. This cozy city offers one of the prettiest colonial architectural sites in the
country, where car traffic is forbidden. As a national historic patrimony since 1966, it is also a
boiling cultural place, with its gastronomical and folklore festivals. Flip is the most important
international literary event that happens in the city every year since 2003. This year, acclaimed
authors, such as Lawrence Wright, Robert Fisk, Alan Pauls, Amós Oz and Jonh Maxwell Coetzee
participated, among others. “Festa do Divino” is one of the biggest regional events, which has
a religious origin. It became a huge party for the whole city with lots of music and vibrant
energy.
Sea and Mountains

By the wharf, there are several kinds of boats offering different routes to
beautiful sites, including “Algodão” and “Sapeca” island, which are perfect
for snorkeling and diving. There are also more than a dozen regular
routes from which to choose. The most adventurous can try different trips
in the 55 islands and hundreds of beaches in the region. “Trindade” is a
bucolic fishermen villa with four beaches and a natural swimming pool.
Jeep tours are a “must” for a taste of wild forests, waterfalls, lagoons
and the traditional Brazilian “cachaça,” distilled liquor from sugarcane. On
foot, one of the best choices is the “Gold Mind Trail” through the Atlantic
forest in the Bocaina National Park. Bike, horseback ridding and kayak
tours are also available. Paraty Tours is a good option to make ecologic
trips and hotel reservations (paratytours@paratytours.com.br). Costs for
Jeep Tours and schooner tours vary from $20 to $25: (24) 3371-8606.
Almost all schooners offer fruits during the ride. They also lend masks and
snorkels free of charge. “Terravista” and “Banzai” are some options for
big groups (terravistatours@gmail.com / escunabanzay@hotmail.com).
The smaller schooners provide cozier atmosphere. Private boats are also
available by the dock.
Dining

There is a huge variety of delicious exotic and regional food everywhere,
such as sweets, cookies and pancakes. Prices can vary from $2.50 for a
flavorful shrimp empanada, known as “pastel” in Brazil or a fancy seafood
meal. Brazilian paellas, “moquecas” – prepared with “dendê” oil, or grilled
meats and fish are offered for a range of $20 to $40. At “Sabor do Mar,”
shrimp and crab hamburgers costs less than $5. “Porto” and “Margarida
Café” are sophisticated places, where the food is served at beautiful
hidden table gardens. “O Café” is a peculiar garden restaurant that offers
musical and art shows, worth to be visited. On the budget side, there are
abundant choices of buffets that charge plates by weight. Besides hot and
cold salads, they offer sorted fish barbecues.
Where to stay

This romantic and poetic city welcomes eclectic groups of people and gay
couples are very well received at all hotels and bed & breakfasts. Hotels
offer a substantial buffet with a variety of breads, cakes, cheeses, jellies
and juices, besides coffee and teas. And the good news is that is all
included in price for each night stay. In the historic center, good options
are “Hotel Coxixo” (hcoxixo@terra.com.br) and “Estalagem Colonial”
(estalagemcolonial@yahoo.com.br) with price ranges from $70 to $100 for
two people. Right near the historic center, there are places to stay on a
hill, with beautiful views. “Hotel Pousada do Forte”
(reserves@hoteldoforteparaty.com.br) and “Aldeia Paratii”
(aldeiaparatii@hotmail.com) are a couple of them. They have swimming
pools and rooms with terraces. “Sauna Paraty” is located in an Eco Park
and Resort, not too far from the city, where the majority of guests are gay
men (sauna@pousadainternacional.com.br). There are also inexpensive
hotels about four or five blocks from the historic center, such as “Pousada
Silotel”(24) 3371-1320 and “Pousada do Sono”
(pousadadosono@paratyinfo.com.br), where prices vary from $30 to $50
for one or two people.

How to get there

There are buses from Rio and Sao Paulo on a regular basis. Tickets are sold
for $25 each way.