| STOPS ON THE GASTRONOMIC TRAIL IN CHARLEVOIX: QUEBEC’S AREA OF FINE FOODS Story & Photos by Habeeb Salloum Continued Below |
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| WAVE Journey.com |
| Women's Adventures, Vacations & Experiences ~ Your Journey Starts Here! |
Continued Below |
In the past I had travelled to Charlevoix, some one and a half hours drive east of Quebec City;
but in the ensuing years had always yearned to return to this region, noted for its fine foods.
A rich farming and tourist area with an enticing mountain and river landscape, inviting fiords,
islands, lakes, parks and wilderness, it contains within its borders charming villages and rustic
farms. As well, the many tourist establishments such as art galleries, museums, quaint inns
and restaurants, combine to dazzle and delight visitors. Above all, this region with some
30,000 inhabitants is noted for its organic foods offered locally to the some of 800,000 annual
tourists by its hospitable inhabitants.
but in the ensuing years had always yearned to return to this region, noted for its fine foods.
A rich farming and tourist area with an enticing mountain and river landscape, inviting fiords,
islands, lakes, parks and wilderness, it contains within its borders charming villages and rustic
farms. As well, the many tourist establishments such as art galleries, museums, quaint inns
and restaurants, combine to dazzle and delight visitors. Above all, this region with some
30,000 inhabitants is noted for its organic foods offered locally to the some of 800,000 annual
tourists by its hospitable inhabitants.
This day I had returned and was planning
to indulge in savouring, as much as
possible, of the region’s food. Thinking of
the many calories that I would consume, I
was awakened from my dreams when our
vehicle stopped in Baie St-Paul (a village
of some 4,000), at the restaurant/bar
and microbrewery, Le Saint Pub, serving
a whole series of in-house beers along
with excellent meals.
to indulge in savouring, as much as
possible, of the region’s food. Thinking of
the many calories that I would consume, I
was awakened from my dreams when our
vehicle stopped in Baie St-Paul (a village
of some 4,000), at the restaurant/bar
and microbrewery, Le Saint Pub, serving
a whole series of in-house beers along
with excellent meals.
Both Frederick and Caroline, the owners,
are proud of their establishment, working in
total harmony at creating new types of
beers, of which some have become well
known. Business is expanding and they
are now in the process of building a new
brewery. In the words of Frederick, “I have
always loved beer and I have been
experimenting with beer-making since I
was in my teens. The brewing of beer is
what I love most”.
are proud of their establishment, working in
total harmony at creating new types of
beers, of which some have become well
known. Business is expanding and they
are now in the process of building a new
brewery. In the words of Frederick, “I have
always loved beer and I have been
experimenting with beer-making since I
was in my teens. The brewing of beer is
what I love most”.
As luck would have it, he married Caroline, a woman that had the same love for beer. In
1998 they opened their brewery/restaurant/bar serving their own brands – increasing
year after year. At any one time they have four or five of their brands on tap. After
sampling a number of brands while nibbling on excellent appetizers and other foods all
mostly prepared from the region’s organic produce, we all agreed that Dominus Luplus, a
champagne-like beer that Frederick had created for festive occasions, was the best.
1998 they opened their brewery/restaurant/bar serving their own brands – increasing
year after year. At any one time they have four or five of their brands on tap. After
sampling a number of brands while nibbling on excellent appetizers and other foods all
mostly prepared from the region’s organic produce, we all agreed that Dominus Luplus, a
champagne-like beer that Frederick had created for festive occasions, was the best.
Walking across the street we stopped at Chocolaterie Cynthia famous for its handmade
hand-produced Belgium-type chocolates made, primarily from local ingredients, such as
fresh blueberries, maple syrup and cherries. For chocolate lovers and for those who yearn
for excellent chocolate-dipped ice cream, it is a sweet paradise much visited by tourists.
hand-produced Belgium-type chocolates made, primarily from local ingredients, such as
fresh blueberries, maple syrup and cherries. For chocolate lovers and for those who yearn
for excellent chocolate-dipped ice cream, it is a sweet paradise much visited by tourists.
After sampling some of the chocolates we left for
Laiterie Charlevoix, a cheese establishment that
has preserved the personal aspect of processing
cheese. A successful family business, the Laiterie
illustrates to visitors first hand how milk is turned
to cheese. According to John Labbé, one of the
owners, “We have our family secrets on how to
create our specialized cheeses and our brands are
finding an ever-increasing demand.”
Laiterie Charlevoix, a cheese establishment that
has preserved the personal aspect of processing
cheese. A successful family business, the Laiterie
illustrates to visitors first hand how milk is turned
to cheese. According to John Labbé, one of the
owners, “We have our family secrets on how to
create our specialized cheeses and our brands are
finding an ever-increasing demand.”
We toured the museum dedicating the Labbé family’s history in cheese making, then
viewed the process of cheese making from the windows as we sampled some of the
Laiterie’s specialities such as Vieux Charlevoix and Gruyère before we left for L’Auberge la
Muse, our abode for the night.
viewed the process of cheese making from the windows as we sampled some of the
Laiterie’s specialities such as Vieux Charlevoix and Gruyère before we left for L’Auberge la
Muse, our abode for the night.
Located in the heart of Baie-Saint-Paul, this tiny 14 room Victorian abode oozes a friendly atmosphere
made possible by its pleasant owners Evelyne Tremblay and Robert Arsenault. In its gourmet restaurant
we dined on some of the finest dishes in the region made possible by its excellent chef, Hank Suzuki, who
has a passion for preparing dishes from prime local ingredients with an exotic Japanese touch. The
gracious and charming Evelyne who had lived for some time in Japan had learned to appreciate Japanese
food and now her chef is imparting bits of Japanese cooking to visitors dining in this little gem of an inn in
tourist-friendly Charlevoix.
made possible by its pleasant owners Evelyne Tremblay and Robert Arsenault. In its gourmet restaurant
we dined on some of the finest dishes in the region made possible by its excellent chef, Hank Suzuki, who
has a passion for preparing dishes from prime local ingredients with an exotic Japanese touch. The
gracious and charming Evelyne who had lived for some time in Japan had learned to appreciate Japanese
food and now her chef is imparting bits of Japanese cooking to visitors dining in this little gem of an inn in
tourist-friendly Charlevoix.
The saying that ‘staying in one of Charlevoix’s quaint inns, hid amid the beauty of nature, is like
drinking all evening without a morning hangover’, is truly exemplified by this quaint inn.
drinking all evening without a morning hangover’, is truly exemplified by this quaint inn.
Continuing on our gastronomic trail, our first stop next morning was Maison d’Affinage Maurice Dufour,
the second cheese maker in Charlevoix. Here they store and age some of Laiterie Charlevoix’s cheeses
and produce five types of their own, among these: Tomme D’Elles’; Deo Gratias, made from sheep’s milk;
and the award winning Le Migneron, the most widely sold cheese in Charlevoix.
the second cheese maker in Charlevoix. Here they store and age some of Laiterie Charlevoix’s cheeses
and produce five types of their own, among these: Tomme D’Elles’; Deo Gratias, made from sheep’s milk;
and the award winning Le Migneron, the most widely sold cheese in Charlevoix.
After an explanation of cheese making from an
enthusiastic employee, we sampled and then
bought some of the cheeses before driving to
La Ferme Basque – a small farm, operated by
Jean-Jacques Etcheberrigary, who hails from
the Basque area in France, and his pleasant
wife Isabelle Mihura. They operate an organic
farm with foie gras as their main product.
enthusiastic employee, we sampled and then
bought some of the cheeses before driving to
La Ferme Basque – a small farm, operated by
Jean-Jacques Etcheberrigary, who hails from
the Basque area in France, and his pleasant
wife Isabelle Mihura. They operate an organic
farm with foie gras as their main product.
Jean-Jacques, who also works as a manager at the nearby Le Manoir Richelieu luxury hotel, is a
happy man who treats his animals well, raising his ducks naturally. Yet, he force-feeds them to
produce the foie gras. However, he said that unlike other producers he does not hurt his
ducks, which produce about 500 grams each of foie gras. In his words, “One must think like
animals, not man. Look what man has done in this world!” He continued while his wife served
us neat-looking samples of foie gras, “Look how appetizing the foie gras looks! We start eating
food with our eyes. Food must be made appealing.”
happy man who treats his animals well, raising his ducks naturally. Yet, he force-feeds them to
produce the foie gras. However, he said that unlike other producers he does not hurt his
ducks, which produce about 500 grams each of foie gras. In his words, “One must think like
animals, not man. Look what man has done in this world!” He continued while his wife served
us neat-looking samples of foie gras, “Look how appetizing the foie gras looks! We start eating
food with our eyes. Food must be made appealing.”
A few minutes drive back to town we entered the Restaurant Orange Bistro where we dined on
fine regional Charlevoix cuisine. I ordered the meal of the day, a tasty lamb dish, at the cost of
$11. As we walked out we all agreed that the food was fabulous and the service better still.
fine regional Charlevoix cuisine. I ordered the meal of the day, a tasty lamb dish, at the cost of
$11. As we walked out we all agreed that the food was fabulous and the service better still.
Sated and happy we drove for 15 minutes to Chocolaterie
du Village – the second handmade chocolate establishment
in Charlevoix. Soon we were listening to Yves Huppe
relating the story of his shop that produces some 40 types
of Belgium-style handmade chocolates. Made with natural
ingredients, his chocolates have been a hit since he began
his business in 2004. Yves attributes his success to his
customers, saying as he handed us sample chocolates, “My
customers – 50% tourists – tell me if they like my new
creations and after that I will continue or discontinue making
them.”
du Village – the second handmade chocolate establishment
in Charlevoix. Soon we were listening to Yves Huppe
relating the story of his shop that produces some 40 types
of Belgium-style handmade chocolates. Made with natural
ingredients, his chocolates have been a hit since he began
his business in 2004. Yves attributes his success to his
customers, saying as he handed us sample chocolates, “My
customers – 50% tourists – tell me if they like my new
creations and after that I will continue or discontinue making
them.”
A short distance away we stopped at Les Jardins
du Centre, a farm/store featuring a wide variety
of fruits and vegetables, organic and locally
grown. A family enterprise for more than 200
years, the farm is noted above all for its maple
sugar shack. Here, during maple sugar time in
spring, guided tours are available to groups who
want to indulge in Quebec’s famous maple sugar
treat - maple toffee on the snow, which takes
place around a 200 year-old home and barn. As I
relished my toffee on the snow, I had a
storybook historic feeling of living in the past. It
was exciting!
du Centre, a farm/store featuring a wide variety
of fruits and vegetables, organic and locally
grown. A family enterprise for more than 200
years, the farm is noted above all for its maple
sugar shack. Here, during maple sugar time in
spring, guided tours are available to groups who
want to indulge in Quebec’s famous maple sugar
treat - maple toffee on the snow, which takes
place around a 200 year-old home and barn. As I
relished my toffee on the snow, I had a
storybook historic feeling of living in the past. It
was exciting!
To cap off our gastronomic tour, that
evening we attended La Fête des
Saveur, hosted by La Table
Agrotouristique de Charlevoix – a
fundraising event held annually. Late
into the evening we gorged ourselves
on course after course prepared by a
collection of some 2-dozen volunteer
chefs and sous-chefs from the
restaurants in the region. It was a
world of culinary delights prepared,
primarily from the organic ingredients
found in the area.
evening we attended La Fête des
Saveur, hosted by La Table
Agrotouristique de Charlevoix – a
fundraising event held annually. Late
into the evening we gorged ourselves
on course after course prepared by a
collection of some 2-dozen volunteer
chefs and sous-chefs from the
restaurants in the region. It was a
world of culinary delights prepared,
primarily from the organic ingredients
found in the area.
That night, resting at the nearby
elegant L’Auberge des 3 Canards, I
reflected on our two-day gastronomic
journey through the picturesque
tourist region of Charlevoix and I felt
contentment. The food establishments
in that region had offered us some of
the top foods found in Quebec –
Canada’s province of culinary
excellence.
elegant L’Auberge des 3 Canards, I
reflected on our two-day gastronomic
journey through the picturesque
tourist region of Charlevoix and I felt
contentment. The food establishments
in that region had offered us some of
the top foods found in Quebec –
Canada’s province of culinary
excellence.
IF YOU GO
Establishments Visited During the Gastronomic Tour:
Micro-Brewery ‘Le Saint Pub, 2 Racine St., Baie-Saint-Paul. Tel: 418-240-2332.
Chocolaterie Cynthia, 66-3 Saint-Jean-Baptiste St., Baie-Saint-Paul. Tel: 418-435-6060.
Maison d’Affinage Maurice Dufour, 1339 boulevard Mgr-De Laval Route 138, Baie-Saint-Paul. Tel: 418-435-5692.
La Ferme Basque, 813 rue Saint-Edouard, Coeur Village, Saint-Urban. Tel: 418-639-2246.
Restaurant Orange Bistro, 29 rue Ambroise-Fafard, Baie-Saint-Paul. Tel: 418-635-1651.
Chocolaterie du Village, 194 du Village, Les Eboulements. Tel: 418-635-1651.
Les Jardins du Centre, 91 rang Centre, Les Eboulements. Tel: 418-635-2387.
Two Good Places to Stay and Dine in Charlevoix:
Auberge La Muse, 39, Saint-Jean-Baptiste St., Baie-Saint-Paul, Charlevoix, Québec
G3Z 1M3. Tel.: (418) 435-6839 / 1 800 841-6839. Fax: (418) 435-6289. E-mail: lamuse@lamuse.com
Website: www.lamuse.com
Auberge des 3 Canards, 115, Côte Bellevue, La Malbaie ( Pointe-au-Pic ) Québec G5A 1Y2. Tel: 418 665-3761 / 1 800 461-
3761. Fax: 418-665-4727. Email: info@auberge3canards.com Website: www.auberge3canards.com
Tidbits about Charlevoix:
Designated a world biosphere by UNESCO in 1989, Charlevoix owes its breathtaking landscape to a crater formed some
350 million years ago when a 15 billion ton meteorite smashed into the earth. The 56 km (35 mi) wide crater whose
outline can be seen clearly from outer space is one of the few inhabited on earth. It forms today the heart of the
Charlevoix region.
One painter who now calls Charlevoix home is Juan Cristobal – a Chilean who fled to Canada after the overthrow of
Allende by a CIA organized coup. His wife, two brothers and mother, also painters in their own right, have enriched the
region with their works. In their three studios, they have given the Quebec art scene a boost – Chile’s loss has been
Charlevoix’s gain.
While in Charlevoix do not miss: Maison du Bootlegger, located at La Malbaie (Sainte-AgnPs) and built in 1860, it gives
one a peek into the underworld of clandestine activities during the Prohibition. It is now a tourist restaurant featuring
fine food, entertainment, guided tours discovering a maze of fake walls and hidden corridors and bars. See website:
www.maisondubootlegger.com
For Further Information Contact:
Tourisme Québec: for complete tourist information Québec, call: (514) 873-2015 or toll free: 1-877-363-7777, or visit web
the site: www.bonjourquebec.com or www.bonjourquebec.com/ca-en/charlevoix0.html
BIO: Habeeb Salloum is a freelance writer, author and member of Travel Media Association of Canada (TMAC)
residing in Toronto, Canada. He has travelled extensively to most parts of the world and written comprehensively
about topical items, tourism and the cuisines of the countries through which he has journeyed.
Establishments Visited During the Gastronomic Tour:
Micro-Brewery ‘Le Saint Pub, 2 Racine St., Baie-Saint-Paul. Tel: 418-240-2332.
Chocolaterie Cynthia, 66-3 Saint-Jean-Baptiste St., Baie-Saint-Paul. Tel: 418-435-6060.
Maison d’Affinage Maurice Dufour, 1339 boulevard Mgr-De Laval Route 138, Baie-Saint-Paul. Tel: 418-435-5692.
La Ferme Basque, 813 rue Saint-Edouard, Coeur Village, Saint-Urban. Tel: 418-639-2246.
Restaurant Orange Bistro, 29 rue Ambroise-Fafard, Baie-Saint-Paul. Tel: 418-635-1651.
Chocolaterie du Village, 194 du Village, Les Eboulements. Tel: 418-635-1651.
Les Jardins du Centre, 91 rang Centre, Les Eboulements. Tel: 418-635-2387.
Two Good Places to Stay and Dine in Charlevoix:
Auberge La Muse, 39, Saint-Jean-Baptiste St., Baie-Saint-Paul, Charlevoix, Québec
G3Z 1M3. Tel.: (418) 435-6839 / 1 800 841-6839. Fax: (418) 435-6289. E-mail: lamuse@lamuse.com
Website: www.lamuse.com
Auberge des 3 Canards, 115, Côte Bellevue, La Malbaie ( Pointe-au-Pic ) Québec G5A 1Y2. Tel: 418 665-3761 / 1 800 461-
3761. Fax: 418-665-4727. Email: info@auberge3canards.com Website: www.auberge3canards.com
Tidbits about Charlevoix:
Designated a world biosphere by UNESCO in 1989, Charlevoix owes its breathtaking landscape to a crater formed some
350 million years ago when a 15 billion ton meteorite smashed into the earth. The 56 km (35 mi) wide crater whose
outline can be seen clearly from outer space is one of the few inhabited on earth. It forms today the heart of the
Charlevoix region.
One painter who now calls Charlevoix home is Juan Cristobal – a Chilean who fled to Canada after the overthrow of
Allende by a CIA organized coup. His wife, two brothers and mother, also painters in their own right, have enriched the
region with their works. In their three studios, they have given the Quebec art scene a boost – Chile’s loss has been
Charlevoix’s gain.
While in Charlevoix do not miss: Maison du Bootlegger, located at La Malbaie (Sainte-AgnPs) and built in 1860, it gives
one a peek into the underworld of clandestine activities during the Prohibition. It is now a tourist restaurant featuring
fine food, entertainment, guided tours discovering a maze of fake walls and hidden corridors and bars. See website:
www.maisondubootlegger.com
For Further Information Contact:
Tourisme Québec: for complete tourist information Québec, call: (514) 873-2015 or toll free: 1-877-363-7777, or visit web
the site: www.bonjourquebec.com or www.bonjourquebec.com/ca-en/charlevoix0.html
BIO: Habeeb Salloum is a freelance writer, author and member of Travel Media Association of Canada (TMAC)
residing in Toronto, Canada. He has travelled extensively to most parts of the world and written comprehensively
about topical items, tourism and the cuisines of the countries through which he has journeyed.